Patterns

UP Blanket Set

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This blanket started by me needing a gift set. Mom to be had mentioned she liked the UP movie and some of the items for the nursery. So me and my grand ideas saw a poster online that I loved. I also loved the quote “Adventure is out there” that was on it as well. This was my humble attempt to pay homage to such a lovely movie.

Note before starting: there is A LOT of sewing. Seriously, not kidding, A LOT!

Caron one pound yarn in white and sky blue
Other colors as needed for the appliques
Size H hook

We start with a basic ripple blanket. Nothing special, but you will be so tired of counting to three by the time you are finished…

Note: dc3tog – Yarn over, insert hook into st and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops (yarn over, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through 2 loops) twice, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

ch 134.
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (beginning ch counts as dc), *dc in next 3 ch, dc3tog, dc in next 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * 11 more times, dc in next 3 ch, dc3tog, dc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch – 13 ripples.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in first dc, *dc in next 3 dc, dc3tog, dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc; rep from * 11 more times, dc in next 3 dc, dc3tog, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in top of turning ch.

Repeat row 2 for a total of 30 rows… or not, whatever you choose honestly. Less white, more white… also you can choose to do the color changes like I did, or just switch straight to the blue. Mind you, the color changes I did are not strict. I say to change in the valley (dc3tog) or peak (3 dc group). You can change the dc before or after the grouping. Whatever is easier for you. Also, some people prefer to carry the yarn they aren’t using behind the color they are… I didn’t. I find with white and dc it shows up and I wanted this to be seen front and back. I choose to bind off and change colors that way. Now, that being said, go have a drink, then change colors if you want.

Row 31: at the third valley change to blue for 3 peaks and switch back to white for the remainder of the row.

Row 32: at the second valley change to blue for 3 peaks. Change back to white for 3 valleys, changing to blue on the next peak for 4 valleys then back to white on the next peak. White for the remainder of the row.

Row 33: at the second valley change to blue for 5 valleys and switch back to white. After 2 valleys switch back to blue for 3 valleys. Switch back to white at the next peak and continue for the rest of the row.

Row 34: change to blue after the first valley. Change back to white after 4 valleys for 1 peak. Change to blue after the next valley and for the remainder of the row.

Row 35: all blue! Woot! No more color changes!

Alright, remind yourself you have come this far, keep going and make 40 rows in blue… ah, now you remember why you don’t like making blankets often…

Edging: for this one I choose just to do a real simple SC all around, placing 3 in every corner and changing color where need be. By the time everything is added I didn’t want it to be too busy.

Also, you might have noticed, you could decide to do a ocean blanket at this point. Up is down and down is up kind of thing…

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Now on to the appliques!

Balloons:
Now I ended up making 33 balloons using 5 different colors. You can use whatever colors you want though. Good time to use up some yarn from the stash! Or if you know the colors the baby’s room are to be done in, that could be a cute addition as well!
You can also decide to just make the whole blanket the balloons and the house and not even bother with the words… trust me, that would save some time and frustration so I’m not going to judge.

Starting with a magic circle, ch 2 then place 10 dc in the circle. Tighten circle and sl st into first dc.

Then ch 2, 2 dc in joining then 2 tc in next, 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 sc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 dc, sl st to top of first dc and bind off, making sure to leave enough for sewing later. Shape a little as necessary. Then repeat for as many balloons as you need.

House:
Again I used some yarn I had on hand. It was a brown for the roof and a really pale yellow for the house. Not exactly the right colors, I know, but you’ll have that. I knew to make a house this small I wasn’t going to get the detail that the house truly calls for.

House part:
Ch 10, hdc in 3rd ch and across.
*ch 2, hdc across* for 4 rows
Ch 1, sc around, putting 2 sc in the corners, bind off and leave a tail for sewing

Roof:
Ch 14, hdc in 3rd ch and across
*ch 2, hdc across* for 3 rows
Ch 1, sc around, putting 2 sc in the corners, bind off and leave a tail for sewing
Attach to the top of the roof part at the 5th hdc in. Ch 2, hdc in same as joining, hdc in each of the next 2 st. Bind off.

Now, you sew. I don’t have any real great words of wisdom except hide your stitches as you sew. That or use the clear thread (I’ve never done so, but others like it) or use some fabric to put on the back when you are done.

Attach the balloons in a overall balloon shape. The house goes below.

How I did the words and the balloon ties are the same principal. What you do is crochet a chain that is the length you need. Sounds easy, but it takes a little bit of getting used to for the words. Then you simply sew it on, making sure to hide your ends and stitches. Pinning it in place would help quite a bit. I would also highly suggest doing this with the balloon strings before attempting the words.

And then after many hours, you are done with the blanket.

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Aviator hat I found on the Repeat Crafted Me site found here: http://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2014/05/crochet-aviator-hat-pattern.html
I did use the Caron white yarn from the blanket though instead of the bulky white she did because I had some left and didn’t want to go buy yet some more yarn… OK I did want to buy more yarn, but my husband has started to notice the stash more…

The diaper cover I used can be found at this link: http://flowerscreations.blogspot.com/2012/05/free-diaper-cover-pattern.html

Mad Hooking!

Granny Square and Ribbon Baby Blanket Set

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So this one started out as my sister finding this picture of a lovely blanket and wanted me to duplicate it for a gift. It isn’t my original idea and I couldn’t find the pattern listed in my usual hunting grounds, so of course this hooker made up one!

A warning. This isn’t an exact pattern. Depending on the size of your granny square will change the count for the edging and really that is all this blanket is… a traditional granny square with a fancy edging. The hat is a bit more exact.  The hat fits a 0-3 month baby.

Red Heart with Love yarn (I used gray and bubblegum pink)
H size hook
Ribbon (I used 5/8″ or 15mm wide and it took just under 18ft or 5.4m)
Accent pearl or button (or nothing)

Alright, start by making your granny square with the gray. You can find a tutorial just about everywhere, but here is one in case you need it and are feeling lazy (like me usually) and don’t want to search… just note as a personal choice I start my squares with a chain 6 and a decent size tail. This way it is easier to start then by pulling the tail and weaving it in it closes up and takes away the starting bump.

http://stephiescorner.blogspot.com/2013/10/crochet-101-make-basic-granny-square.html

I did 34 rounds so that the blanket would be roughly 3ft wide with the edging. How big you make the square is up to you… just make sure you have enough ribbon.

Edging:

Now, I have written down what to do. That being said you might have to add a stitch or skip an extra stitch to make it work with your granny square. Keep calm, have a glass of wine or beer, and know it will be fine.  It doesn’t need to be exact as the edging is very forgiving and will look great no matter what.  Nobody wants a grumpy hooker.

Don’t bind off yarn, just continue on with the gray.  Ch 1, sc in same st as joining then sc in every st.  Put 3 sc in the corner space. Sl st into first sc.

Ch 5, *skip 1 st then tc (triple crochet) in next st, ch 1* around. Corners:  In the 2nd sc of the 3sc corner do *tc, ch 1, tc, ch 1, tc, ch 1* then skip a st and continue down the row. This is the round where you will weave in your ribbon later.

Ch 1, sc in same st as joining then sc in every tc and in each ch 1 space.  Corners:  Put 3 sc in the corner tc (the second tc in the corner grouping). Sl st into first sc and cut and bind your yarn.

Now using pink join in the second st of any of the previous round corner grouping. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same st as joining. Skip 1 st, *dc in next, skip 2 st then (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next st, skip 2 st* around. Corners:  When you get to the corners though you will only be skipping 1 st instead of the 2.  Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Sl st in the first two dc and into the space (just like you did for the granny square).  Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same space. *fpdc (front post double crochet) around the dc in middle of groups, (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next space* around. Corners:  Nothing special to do in the corners for a change. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Sl st in the first two dc and into the space like last round. Ch 3 and do 8 dc in same space. *fpdc around previous round fpdc, 9 dc in ch 1 space* around.  Cornets:  Again, nothing special to do in the corners. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Bind off and weave in your ends.

Now weave in your ribbon doing the over/under in the triple crochet row. Keep the kids away because there will most likely be some choice words here trying to keep the ribbon from twisting.  Also be sure to pull your square into flatness before you cut the ribbon. It will pull the work together a little, but you don’t want to end up with a bunched up blanket and having to reweave the ribbon. Tie your ribbon, making sure it will be where the flower goes to cover it up.  I also got out my sewing needle and thread to add some stitches in all the corners to keep it from twisting and pulling weird.  This will also secure it a bit for future washings.

For the flower I used this pattern: http://www.sccmag.com/crochet-a-sweet-simple-flower-clip-for-spring/

The top part I did with the pink, bottom with gray then I sewed on a pearl bead in the middle.

Now for the 0-3 month old baby hat! And you thought you were done… silly hooker…

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In pink, ch 2 then 12 dc in first chain. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in joining. *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* around. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in joining. *1 dc in next 2st, 2 dc in next st* around. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc. Repeat for 4 rows.

Switch to gray. Ch 2, dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc. Repeat for 2 rows.

Switch back to pink. Ch 2, dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc. Only for 1 row.

Ch 1, sc in joining. *skip 1 st, 5 dc in next, skip 1 st, sc in next* around. Sl st in first sc and bind off, weaving in ends.

Sew on matching flower as blanket and now you are done! Woot, Woot!

Mad Hooking!

4″ Doll for Cradle Purse

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I had some people interested in the cradle purses. I have personally loved these, but I was afraid today’s child wouldn’t like them.  So I decided to make up a few and see how they do, but I could not find a perfect size doll to fit and that wouldn’t be too expensive for the project. So I decided to make one, but of course I couldn’t find just the pattern I wanted… so here’s my own. My finished doll is a 4″ little peanut.

G hook
Worsted weight yarn
Polyfil for stuffing

Hat (color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 3* around
Sc around for 3 rounds
Sc around in front loop only. fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Head (skin color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
Sc around for 5 rounds
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight)
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around
*Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Body (skin color for 3 rounds then color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around (change colors)
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
Sc around for 7 rounds
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight)
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around
*Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew head onto the body then the hat to the head, angling the back of the hat to meet with the body. Embroider some closed eyes and weave in all your ends.

Mad Hooking!

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Baby Turban Hat with a Bow

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I had a request for this style hat for a baby… I found a precious few free patterns and none for the light weight yarn. So like more often than not I found myself coming up with my own patten. I’m just proud that I actually wrote it down to share.

G hook
Baby light #3 yarn I used Bernat softee baby yarn because I had it in my stash

Ch 2, 12 dc in first chain, sl st into top of first dc

Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, *2 dc in each st around then sl st in first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next* around then sl st in first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next 2, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next 2* around then sl st in first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next 3, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next 3* around then sl st in first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next 4, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next 4* around then sl st in first dc.

For the next 4 rows: Ch 2, dc in same as joining and then in each st around.

Ch 1, sc in joining and each st around, sl st in first sc.

Ch 1, hdc in joining in the back loop only and in each st around. Sl st in first hdc.

Repeat last two rows for total of 8 rows.

Ch 1, sc in joining and each st around, sl st in first sc.

Finish off and weave the ends.

Bow

Ch 27, dc in 3rd Ch and across. Turn

Ch 2,  dc across.

Repeat for a total of 8 rows. Finish off and leave a really long tail.

Weave the tail to the middle of the square, pinch together the middle and wrap about 10 times. Thread your yarn into a needle.

Now place it on the hat roughly where the second row of hdc is and holding tightly in place you want to insert your needle where you want the bow to be. Now bring up the yarn on the outside of the hat and pull tight creating the v. Do this another 10ish times and knot the yarn on the inside of the hat.

I then added some hidden stitches to hold the bow into place about an inch from the edges of the bow. Just my preference honestly. Just make sure to weave in the ends when you are done.

Mad Hooking!

Tulle Dress for 12″ Doll

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There is something about the old school just pain plastic dolls that I love and think every girl should have… but of course we have to make it a pretty dress too!

H hook
Worsted weight yarn
12″ doll
Tulle
2 small buttons

Bodice

Ch 20

Ch 1 sc across, turn

Ch 5 (for button hole closure) and sc across, turn

Ch 2 (gives a smoother edge to the dress opening)  *dc in next 3 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat 1 time. Dc in next 4 sc.  *dc in next 3 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat 1 time. Dc in last 3 sc, turn

Ch 2, 4 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 6 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 4 dc, turn

Ch 2, 5 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 7 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 8 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 7 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc, turn

Ch 5, sl st in first dc. Ch 2, 6 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 9 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space,  dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 10 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 6 dc, turn

Ch 2, 7 dc. Now you do a dc decrease in the next two ch 1 spaces. This creates the sleeves. 12 dc, dc decrease in the next two ch 1 spaces, 7 dc, turn

Ch 2, dc across, sl st in first dc created.

Ch 1, sc same as joining. *Skip 1 dc, 5dc in next, skip next dc, sc in next* repeat across ending with a 5dc fan and a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Attach tulle to the under side of last dc across row. Essentially cut the tulle just over double the length you want for the tulle skirt. Use your hook to go around the post of the dc and make a knot in the middle of the length of tulle. The knot is on the under side.

For a different look you can double up on the tulle.  Personal choices, but it seems to look quite full enough I think with the single row.
Bow

Ch 12, hdc in the 3 ch to make 10 total hdc.

Rows 2 – 5 are ch 2, hdc across. Leave a really long tail. Cut four pieces of extra tulle just a little bit larger than the hdc square. Bring the tail to the backside of the square and then place on the tulle. Now using the tail wrap tightly in the middle of the square roughly 10 or so times. Now grab a hair elastic band and place it on the back and wrap another 10ish times going through the middle of the band. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Mad Hooking!

Small Top Hat

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So I needed a go to pattern for a top hat. Why? Because everyone needs a top hat every now and then! This makes a small top hat perfect for a snowman hat, cat hat or to put on a headband or clip for yourself!

I used my G size hook and some Red Heart Super Saver and I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby yarn

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 1 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
Sc around in BACK loop only
*sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
Sc around for the next 4 rounds
*sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
Sc around
Here is where I changed colors for the next 2 sc  rounds
Sc around again in primary color
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc* around
Finish off and sport your top hat!

Mad Hooking!

Baby Marshmallow

IMG_2585So I took the kids to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 and spent the whole movie thinking about what I could turn into crochet… yeah, the life of a Mad Hooker…

My first to make is the Marshmallows since they were the cutest and the first I thought of when I got home.

Baby Marshmallow – Around 2.5 inches tall

Yarn: I just used some miscellaneous white I had and a small amount of black
Hook: size “G”
Other: either 12mm black safety eyes or some black buttons

6 sc in a magic circle, do not join. She is worked in a round
1.  2sc in each st
2.  *2sc in 1 st, 1sc in next st* around
3.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 st* around
4.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st* around
5.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 4 st* around
6.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 5 st* around
7-17. Sc around
18.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 5sc* around
19.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 4sc* around
You should go ahead and insert the safety eyes now between rows 3 and 4 and stuff her lightly. Marshmallows are fluffy remember!
20.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 3sc* around
21.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 2sc* around
22.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 1sc* around
23.  *1sc over the next 2sc* around
Cut your yarn, finish closing and weave in your yarn.

Now just sew on a smile and the buttons if you choose those instead of the safety eyes and you are done!

Mad Hooking!

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Momma Marshmallow

So I took the kids to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 and spent the whole movie thinking about what I could turn into crochet… yeah, the life of a Mad Hooker…

My first to make is the Marshmallows since they were the cutest and the first I thought of when I got home.

Momma Marshmallow – A little over 4 inches tall

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Yarn: I just used some miscellaneous white I had and a small amount of black
Hook: size “G”
Other: either 12mm black safety eyes or some black buttons

6 sc in a magic circle, do not join. She is worked in a round
1.  2sc in each st
2.  *2sc in 1 st, 1sc in next st* around
3.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 st* around
4.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st* around
5.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 4 st* around
6.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 5 st* around
7.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 6 st* around
8.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 7 st* around
9.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 8 st* around
10.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 9 st* around
11.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 10 st* around
12-22.  Sc around
23.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 10sc* around
24.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 9sc* around
25.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 8sc* around
26.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 7sc* around
27.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 6sc* around
28.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 5sc* around
29.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 4sc* around
You should go ahead and insert the safety eyes now between rows 5 and 6 and stuff her lightly. Marshmallows are fluffy remember!
30.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 3sc* around
31.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 2sc* around
32.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 1sc* around
33.  *1sc over the next 2sc* around
Cut your yarn, finish closing and weave in your yarn.

Now just sew on a smile and the buttons if you choose those instead of the safety eyes and you are done!

Mad Hooking!

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Buckeye Ear Warmer

OK, so there is nothing really new about making a ear warmer at all. There are truly lots of patterns you can find and free at that. I have tried quite a few and just could not get the result I was looking for. Everything seems to be in the bulky yarns with a large hook… that or I must have the biggest melon around as they were always turning out way the hell too small. So that is why I wrote this pattern and figured I would share it for others who find themselves stuck like me. Well that and so I can find the pattern easier than searching through all my crochet paraphernalia…

Ear warmer
Sizing: This pattern I have found will make an ear warmer that will fit anywhere from a tween size melon to adult with different degrees of looseness. It fit me comfortably and my 10 year old daughter as well.

Yarn: I used Red Heart Soft yarn
Hook: size “H”

Ch 90 and then sl st to the 1st chain being careful not to let it twist on you. Because it will, because yarn likes to troll sometimes.

1. Ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining to decrease that stupid looking gap that sometimes happens. Now sc in next 14 st then dc in the next 75 st. Do NOT join, even if you want, just keep on crocheting and work in rounds. Makes things easier.. at least in my mind so no popping my bubble.

2.  SC in the next 15 st then dc in the 75 st

3.  Repeat round 2 for a total of 10 dc rounds. If you want a wider ear warmer, just keep going around.

4.  SC around and bind off your end. Now turn the complete work, join your yarn, Ch 1, sc in same as joining and sc around into the original Ch. Do you have to? Hell no, it is your project, do what you want. I liked it, so I took the time to make it look more finished to me.

5.  Done! I added the the buckeye applique, but again your project, do what you want.

Buckeye Applique
size: it fits on the ear warmer
Yarn: Red Heart extras that I had in my stash. You will need light brown, medium brown and green… well unless you decide to make it some other funky colors. That could be interesting…
Hook:  size “G”

Buckeye: Make 2.  This is worked in a round so NO joining after each rounds.

1. With the light brown 6 sc in magic circle then switch to the medium brown

2.  2 sc in each st around

3.  *2 sc in next st, 1sc in next st* and repeat around then bind off making sure to leave a tail for sewing.

Leaves:  Make 3. (Now there is nothing special about this pattern. I have been making then for a while and I can’t remember even where I got it from anymore. I wish I could to give them credit.)

1. Ch 10, turn

2. Starting in the 2nd Ch from your hook work as follows:  sl, sc, hdc, dc, tc, dc, hdc, sc, sl then working in the opposite side of the original Ch sl, sc, hdc, dc, tc, dc, hdc, sc, sl then bind off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Now attach the applique however you want or use my pictures to do as I did.  Again, your creation, your decision.

You are done, celebrate by making more or going on to your next pattern… the circle of crochet!

Mad Hooking!

My Favorite Dishcloth

I worked a while trying to get the pattern down because I couldn’t find one that I really liked. These are thick and fit perfectly into my hand so you don’t have to refold them while doing dishes. The pattern isn’t perfect though and a lot of add a hdc here or sc there on two rounds… G hook with sugar ‘n cream yarn.

Puff st is (YO, pull up loop) three times then YO and pull through all loops.

basically ch 6 and sl st to make a circle

Round 1: ch 1, (puff st, ch 1) six times then sl st to original ch 1

Round 2: ch 1, puff st in same as connecting, ch 1, (1 puff st , ch 1, puff st, ch 1 in-between the previous round puff st) five times then a puff st in last ch from the previous round, ch 1 then sl st in original ch 1

Round 3: ch 1, puff st in same as connecting, ch 1; puff st, ch 1 in next ch 1 space, (puff st, ch 1, puff st, ch1 in next ch 1 space then in next ch 1 space do another puff st, ch 1) five times then a puff st in last ch from the previous round, ch 1 then sl st in original ch 1

Round 4: ch 2, (hdc in next 4, 2hdc in next) around. May end up with extra hdc at the end then sl st to top of original ch 2

Round 5: ch 1 (sc in next 5, 2 sc in next) around. May end up with extra sc then sl st to top of original ch 1

Round 6: do NOT make any ch to start. (Skip one ch then 5 dc in next st, skip one ch, sl st next) around and sl st to sl st from previous round. Every now and the I have to either fit another 5 dc before ending it seems, basically just go by how it looks.