So this was an idea I had when trying to think of more ways to use up the stash of yarn I have residing in my house. Nothing special about this one, just a bunch of granny squares.
You are going to need a total of 70 squares to make up this blanket like I did. Now, you can always choose to do it differently, but I’m going to keep these instructions to what I did for this blanket.
Blanket measures 76″ tall by 46″ wide Made with stash worsted weight yarn and H size hook
As far as how big I made the squares, I did a total of six rounds which makes it to on the last round you have four groups of three in-between the corners. I choose to change colors every two rounds, making as many different combinations as I could.
You will need a total of: 30 blue colored granny squares 26 green colored granny squares 5 brown colored granny squares
Now for the special granny squares. Just keep in mind to make them the same size as the plain ones. Just continue with the granny square pattern as needed.
Now, for the fun part! Sewing all these together! Yeah… Now I used the ladder method of invisible join. I prefer it, but if you don’t choose what works for you. Use the picture of the pattern for placement.
Finally done sewing? Now for the boarder. First three rows are basically the granny square pattern around the whole blanket. Join in one of the corners, ch 3, 2 DC, ch 2, 3 DC. Ch 1 *In next space 3 DC, ch 1 and repeat until the corner In corner, 3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC, ch 1* repeat around. Now, the only thing is where two squares meet up. You are going to see the corner of one next to the corner of the other separated by the seam of sewing them together. Do your first DC in the first corner. Then you are going to do a DC tog (yarn over, insert hook in first corner, yarn over and pull through the corner. Now yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and insert hook through next corner and pull through the corner. Now yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and pull through the rest of the loops.) the last DC in the group will be in the second corner.
Pictures for reference:
Last round of the boarder Start in a corner, ch 3, 6dc, ch 1 *in next space SC, ch1. Then in next space 5dc* continue until corner. The corner will have 7 DC in each. However I did have it happen where I didn’t end with the SC before the corner. If this happens just put the SC, ch 1 in the last DC before the corner, 7dc, ch 1, SC in first DC, ch 1.
I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5. Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!
Panda Ball
Size G hook 9mm safety eyes or small buttons Some black and white yarn
Eyes 6 sc in magic circle, but don’t close tightly if you are using the safety eyes 2 sc in next, 2 hdc in next, sc and sl st in next. bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The safety eye will slide through the magic circle then through the ball (when we get to putting the eyes on) and then you can sew the black spot you just made in place.
Ball 6 sc in magic circle *inc (2sc in next sc)* around *inc, 1sc in next* around *inc, 1sc in next 2* around *inc, 1sc in next 3* around *inc, 1sc in next 4* around Sc around for 2 rows then switch to black. Sc around for 5 rows then switch back to white for 2 more rows. *dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around *dec, 1sc in next 3* around *dec, 1sc in next 2* around Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late. It is easier to wait until after you have finished it off the ball to sew the eye patch in place. *dec, 1sc in next 1* around Dec around, bind off and sew close.
Tail 6 sc in magic circle *inc, 1sc in next* around Sc around. Bind off and sew on.
Ears 6 sc in magic circle *inc, 1sc in next* around Sc around for two rows. Bind off, flatten and sew on.
Now just sew on a cute nose and mouth and you are done.
I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5. Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!
Zebra Ball
Size G hook 9mm safety eyes or small buttons Some black and white yarn
Ball Note, I switched yarn every other round, just in a different random place every time. Switch more or less is up to you and makes every zebra different. Or not at all and have a horse ball!
Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle *inc (2sc in next sc)* around *inc, 1sc in next* around *inc, 1sc in next 2* around *inc, 1sc in next 3* around *inc, 1sc in next 4* around Sc around for 9 rows *dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around *dec, 1sc in next 3* around *dec, 1sc in next 2* around Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late. *dec, 1sc in next 1* around Dec around, bind off and sew close.
Muzzle Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle *inc* around Sc around for 2 rows, bind off, stuff and sew on. Sew two nostrils on as well.
Ears Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle Sc around *inc, 1sc in next* around Sc around for 2 rows, bind off and flatten then sew on.
Hair cut some black and white yarn roughly about 5 inches in length. Attach to the ball using latch hook method, making sure white yarn on white stripe and black yarn on black stripe. When done, trim as needed.
This blanket started by me needing a gift set. Mom to be had mentioned she liked the UP movie and some of the items for the nursery. So me and my grand ideas saw a poster online that I loved. I also loved the quote “Adventure is out there” that was on it as well. This was my humble attempt to pay homage to such a lovely movie.
Note before starting: there is A LOT of sewing. Seriously, not kidding, A LOT!
Caron one pound yarn in white and sky blue Other colors as needed for the appliques Size H hook
We start with a basic ripple blanket. Nothing special, but you will be so tired of counting to three by the time you are finished…
Note: dc3tog – Yarn over, insert hook into st and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops (yarn over, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through 2 loops) twice, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
ch 134. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (beginning ch counts as dc), *dc in next 3 ch, dc3tog, dc in next 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * 11 more times, dc in next 3 ch, dc3tog, dc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch – 13 ripples. Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in first dc, *dc in next 3 dc, dc3tog, dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc; rep from * 11 more times, dc in next 3 dc, dc3tog, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in top of turning ch.
Repeat row 2 for a total of 30 rows… or not, whatever you choose honestly. Less white, more white… also you can choose to do the color changes like I did, or just switch straight to the blue. Mind you, the color changes I did are not strict. I say to change in the valley (dc3tog) or peak (3 dc group). You can change the dc before or after the grouping. Whatever is easier for you. Also, some people prefer to carry the yarn they aren’t using behind the color they are… I didn’t. I find with white and dc it shows up and I wanted this to be seen front and back. I choose to bind off and change colors that way. Now, that being said, go have a drink, then change colors if you want.
Row 31: at the third valley change to blue for 3 peaks and switch back to white for the remainder of the row.
Row 32: at the second valley change to blue for 3 peaks. Change back to white for 3 valleys, changing to blue on the next peak for 4 valleys then back to white on the next peak. White for the remainder of the row.
Row 33: at the second valley change to blue for 5 valleys and switch back to white. After 2 valleys switch back to blue for 3 valleys. Switch back to white at the next peak and continue for the rest of the row.
Row 34: change to blue after the first valley. Change back to white after 4 valleys for 1 peak. Change to blue after the next valley and for the remainder of the row.
Row 35: all blue! Woot! No more color changes!
Alright, remind yourself you have come this far, keep going and make 40 rows in blue… ah, now you remember why you don’t like making blankets often…
Edging: for this one I choose just to do a real simple SC all around, placing 3 in every corner and changing color where need be. By the time everything is added I didn’t want it to be too busy.
Also, you might have noticed, you could decide to do a ocean blanket at this point. Up is down and down is up kind of thing…
Now on to the appliques!
Balloons: Now I ended up making 33 balloons using 5 different colors. You can use whatever colors you want though. Good time to use up some yarn from the stash! Or if you know the colors the baby’s room are to be done in, that could be a cute addition as well! You can also decide to just make the whole blanket the balloons and the house and not even bother with the words… trust me, that would save some time and frustration so I’m not going to judge.
Starting with a magic circle, ch 2 then place 10 dc in the circle. Tighten circle and sl st into first dc.
Then ch 2, 2 dc in joining then 2 tc in next, 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 sc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 dc, sl st to top of first dc and bind off, making sure to leave enough for sewing later. Shape a little as necessary. Then repeat for as many balloons as you need.
House: Again I used some yarn I had on hand. It was a brown for the roof and a really pale yellow for the house. Not exactly the right colors, I know, but you’ll have that. I knew to make a house this small I wasn’t going to get the detail that the house truly calls for.
House part: Ch 10, hdc in 3rd ch and across. *ch 2, hdc across* for 4 rows Ch 1, sc around, putting 2 sc in the corners, bind off and leave a tail for sewing
Roof: Ch 14, hdc in 3rd ch and across *ch 2, hdc across* for 3 rows Ch 1, sc around, putting 2 sc in the corners, bind off and leave a tail for sewing Attach to the top of the roof part at the 5th hdc in. Ch 2, hdc in same as joining, hdc in each of the next 2 st. Bind off.
Now, you sew. I don’t have any real great words of wisdom except hide your stitches as you sew. That or use the clear thread (I’ve never done so, but others like it) or use some fabric to put on the back when you are done.
Attach the balloons in a overall balloon shape. The house goes below.
How I did the words and the balloon ties are the same principal. What you do is crochet a chain that is the length you need. Sounds easy, but it takes a little bit of getting used to for the words. Then you simply sew it on, making sure to hide your ends and stitches. Pinning it in place would help quite a bit. I would also highly suggest doing this with the balloon strings before attempting the words.
And then after many hours, you are done with the blanket.
Aviator hat I found on the Repeat Crafted Me site found here: http://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2014/05/crochet-aviator-hat-pattern.html I did use the Caron white yarn from the blanket though instead of the bulky white she did because I had some left and didn’t want to go buy yet some more yarn… OK I did want to buy more yarn, but my husband has started to notice the stash more…
So this one started out as my sister finding this picture of a lovely blanket and wanted me to duplicate it for a gift. It isn’t my original idea and I couldn’t find the pattern listed in my usual hunting grounds, so of course this hooker made up one!
A warning. This isn’t an exact pattern. Depending on the size of your granny square will change the count for the edging and really that is all this blanket is… a traditional granny square with a fancy edging. The hat is a bit more exact. The hat fits a 0-3 month baby.
Red Heart with Love yarn (I used gray and bubblegum pink) H size hook Ribbon (I used 5/8″ or 15mm wide and it took just under 18ft or 5.4m) Accent pearl or button (or nothing)
Alright, start by making your granny square with the gray. You can find a tutorial just about everywhere, but here is one in case you need it and are feeling lazy (like me usually) and don’t want to search… just note as a personal choice I start my squares with a chain 6 and a decent size tail. This way it is easier to start then by pulling the tail and weaving it in it closes up and takes away the starting bump.
I did 34 rounds so that the blanket would be roughly 3ft wide with the edging. How big you make the square is up to you… just make sure you have enough ribbon.
Edging:
Now, I have written down what to do. That being said you might have to add a stitch or skip an extra stitch to make it work with your granny square. Keep calm, have a glass of wine or beer, and know it will be fine. It doesn’t need to be exact as the edging is very forgiving and will look great no matter what. Nobody wants a grumpy hooker.
Don’t bind off yarn, just continue on with the gray. Ch 1, sc in same st as joining then sc in every st. Put 3 sc in the corner space. Sl st into first sc.
Ch 5, *skip 1 st then tc (triple crochet) in next st, ch 1* around. Corners: In the 2nd sc of the 3sc corner do *tc, ch 1, tc, ch 1, tc, ch 1* then skip a st and continue down the row. This is the round where you will weave in your ribbon later.
Ch 1, sc in same st as joining then sc in every tc and in each ch 1 space. Corners: Put 3 sc in the corner tc (the second tc in the corner grouping). Sl st into first sc and cut and bind your yarn.
Now using pink join in the second st of any of the previous round corner grouping. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same st as joining. Skip 1 st, *dc in next, skip 2 st then (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next st, skip 2 st* around. Corners: When you get to the corners though you will only be skipping 1 st instead of the 2. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.
Sl st in the first two dc and into the space (just like you did for the granny square). Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same space. *fpdc (front post double crochet) around the dc in middle of groups, (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next space* around. Corners: Nothing special to do in the corners for a change. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.
Sl st in the first two dc and into the space like last round. Ch 3 and do 8 dc in same space. *fpdc around previous round fpdc, 9 dc in ch 1 space* around. Cornets: Again, nothing special to do in the corners. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Bind off and weave in your ends.
Now weave in your ribbon doing the over/under in the triple crochet row. Keep the kids away because there will most likely be some choice words here trying to keep the ribbon from twisting. Also be sure to pull your square into flatness before you cut the ribbon. It will pull the work together a little, but you don’t want to end up with a bunched up blanket and having to reweave the ribbon. Tie your ribbon, making sure it will be where the flower goes to cover it up. I also got out my sewing needle and thread to add some stitches in all the corners to keep it from twisting and pulling weird. This will also secure it a bit for future washings.
I had some people interested in the cradle purses. I have personally loved these, but I was afraid today’s child wouldn’t like them. So I decided to make up a few and see how they do, but I could not find a perfect size doll to fit and that wouldn’t be too expensive for the project. So I decided to make one, but of course I couldn’t find just the pattern I wanted… so here’s my own. My finished doll is a 4″ little peanut.
G hook Worsted weight yarn Polyfil for stuffing
Hat (color of choice)
6 sc in magic circle *2 sc in each sc* around *2 sc in sc, sc in next* around *2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around *2 sc in sc, sc in next 3* around Sc around for 3 rounds Sc around in front loop only. fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Head (skin color of choice)
6 sc in magic circle *2 sc in each sc* around *2 sc in sc, sc in next* around *2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around Sc around for 5 rounds *Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around *Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight) *Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around *Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Body (skin color for 3 rounds then color of choice)
6 sc in magic circle *2 sc in each sc* around *2 sc in sc, sc in next* around (change colors) *2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around Sc around for 7 rounds *Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around *Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight) *Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around *Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew head onto the body then the hat to the head, angling the back of the hat to meet with the body. Embroider some closed eyes and weave in all your ends.
I had a request for this style hat for a baby… I found a precious few free patterns and none for the light weight yarn. So like more often than not I found myself coming up with my own patten. I’m just proud that I actually wrote it down to share.
G hook Baby light #3 yarn I used Bernat softee baby yarn because I had it in my stash
Ch 2, 12 dc in first chain, sl st into top of first dc
Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, *2 dc in each st around then sl st in first dc.
Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next* around then sl st in first dc.
Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next 2, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next 2* around then sl st in first dc.
Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next 3, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next 3* around then sl st in first dc.
Ch 2, 2 dc in same as joining, 1 dc in next 4, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next 4* around then sl st in first dc.
For the next 4 rows: Ch 2, dc in same as joining and then in each st around.
Ch 1, sc in joining and each st around, sl st in first sc.
Ch 1, hdc in joining in the back loop only and in each st around. Sl st in first hdc.
Repeat last two rows for total of 8 rows.
Ch 1, sc in joining and each st around, sl st in first sc.
Finish off and weave the ends.
Bow
Ch 27, dc in 3rd Ch and across. Turn
Ch 2, dc across.
Repeat for a total of 8 rows. Finish off and leave a really long tail.
Weave the tail to the middle of the square, pinch together the middle and wrap about 10 times. Thread your yarn into a needle.
Now place it on the hat roughly where the second row of hdc is and holding tightly in place you want to insert your needle where you want the bow to be. Now bring up the yarn on the outside of the hat and pull tight creating the v. Do this another 10ish times and knot the yarn on the inside of the hat.
I then added some hidden stitches to hold the bow into place about an inch from the edges of the bow. Just my preference honestly. Just make sure to weave in the ends when you are done.
There is something about the old school just pain plastic dolls that I love and think every girl should have… but of course we have to make it a pretty dress too!
H hook Worsted weight yarn 12″ doll Tulle 2 small buttons
Bodice
Ch 20
Ch 1 sc across, turn
Ch 5 (for button hole closure) and sc across, turn
Ch 2 (gives a smoother edge to the dress opening) *dc in next 3 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat 1 time. Dc in next 4 sc. *dc in next 3 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat 1 time. Dc in last 3 sc, turn
Ch 2, 4 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 6 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 4 dc, turn
Ch 2, 5 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 7 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 8 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 7 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc, turn
Ch 5, sl st in first dc. Ch 2, 6 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 9 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 10 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 6 dc, turn
Ch 2, 7 dc. Now you do a dc decrease in the next two ch 1 spaces. This creates the sleeves. 12 dc, dc decrease in the next two ch 1 spaces, 7 dc, turn
Ch 2, dc across, sl st in first dc created.
Ch 1, sc same as joining. *Skip 1 dc, 5dc in next, skip next dc, sc in next* repeat across ending with a 5dc fan and a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Attach tulle to the under side of last dc across row. Essentially cut the tulle just over double the length you want for the tulle skirt. Use your hook to go around the post of the dc and make a knot in the middle of the length of tulle. The knot is on the under side.
For a different look you can double up on the tulle. Personal choices, but it seems to look quite full enough I think with the single row. Bow
Ch 12, hdc in the 3 ch to make 10 total hdc.
Rows 2 – 5 are ch 2, hdc across. Leave a really long tail. Cut four pieces of extra tulle just a little bit larger than the hdc square. Bring the tail to the backside of the square and then place on the tulle. Now using the tail wrap tightly in the middle of the square roughly 10 or so times. Now grab a hair elastic band and place it on the back and wrap another 10ish times going through the middle of the band. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
So I needed a go to pattern for a top hat. Why? Because everyone needs a top hat every now and then! This makes a small top hat perfect for a snowman hat, cat hat or to put on a headband or clip for yourself!
I used my G size hook and some Red Heart Super Saver and I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby yarn
6 sc in magic circle *2 sc in each sc* around *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 1 sc* around *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* around *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc* around *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around Sc around in BACK loop only *sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc* around Sc around for the next 4 rounds *sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc* around Sc around Here is where I changed colors for the next 2 sc rounds Sc around again in primary color *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc* around Finish off and sport your top hat!
So I took the kids to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 and spent the whole movie thinking about what I could turn into crochet… yeah, the life of a Mad Hooker…
My first to make is the Marshmallows since they were the cutest and the first I thought of when I got home.
Baby Marshmallow – Around 2.5 inches tall
Yarn: I just used some miscellaneous white I had and a small amount of black Hook: size “G” Other: either 12mm black safety eyes or some black buttons
6 sc in a magic circle, do not join. She is worked in a round 1. 2sc in each st 2. *2sc in 1 st, 1sc in next st* around 3. *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 st* around 4. *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st* around 5. *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 4 st* around 6. *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 5 st* around 7-17. Sc around 18. *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 5sc* around 19. *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 4sc* around You should go ahead and insert the safety eyes now between rows 3 and 4 and stuff her lightly. Marshmallows are fluffy remember! 20. *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 3sc* around 21. *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 2sc* around 22. *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 1sc* around 23. *1sc over the next 2sc* around Cut your yarn, finish closing and weave in your yarn.
Now just sew on a smile and the buttons if you choose those instead of the safety eyes and you are done!
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