As with a lot of things I make, this started with an idea from someone. They had an idea of what they wanted because they saw a picture… Of a paid pattern. Now, I typically stay away from paid patterns on general principal, but I had a weak moment. I bought the rather pricey pattern… I knew I shouldn’t, but I did. It was absolutely dreadful! It had good reviews and was written decently, but I found it just awful. It was made of motifs that you connected as you went… OK, I can do that. However when you did connect them it left gaping holes in the pattern and did not look like scales at all! Just not for me… so here is what I came up with after I got rid of that hideous attempt.
Measurements:
Tail to top 42 inches
Tail to tip of fin 12 inches
Top width 38 inches
size H hook
worsted weight yarn: The best estimate I have on how much I used until I duplicate this more is a total of 1600 yds. Now the one pictured I used Bernat super value (426 yds per skein) in lilac and light damson. Then the variegated yarn was 2 skeins (since they come in 275 yd skeins) in fresh lilac. As always though everyone can use different amounts of yarn depending on how tight or loose you crochet. Please err on the side of having extra yarn. As I have made more this is roughly accurate. Notice though I find I need extra yarn of the two solid colors (not just one skein of the super value) and so I can do a two stranded fin.
Edit: So I’ve been grabbing 2 skeins each of the solid color and 2 of the variegated yarn. I swear every time I make this I have different amount of yarn leftover… The last two I’ve made the fin out of the solid colors because the variegated almost ran out. The solid colors I am left with over a half of one and all over 3/4 of the other… Trying to get down the yardage for this has been tearing my hair out. The yarns are not exactly the same is my thought.
Also for those who need to resize the pattern, Rachel Z. Commented this:
“Thanks for the great pattern. I just finished a child size one and I’ve seen a lot of request for the modifications… my top chain was 128 (includes 2 turning chains). If you work in multiples of 6 and add 2 for turning, it always works out. I did 42 5dc rows then joined it together. After joining, I did 15 5dc rows. When reducing to a 3dc pattern, I followed the remaining instructions until I had 14 st at the close. I made the same fin, which the top reduces to 7 st and it attaches to the tail perfectly. I hope this helps others wanting to make a child sized blanket :)”
Also for those with problems understanding the crochet language a fellow hooker named HAB posted this: “For instructions of terminology you don’t understand, use Google search engine to ask or go to a yarn website and search for abbreviations. At the very least buy a basic crochet book. sctog = single crochet two together. http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/
For Knit and Crochet abbreviationshttp://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-
This free pattern is written by someone who is not a professional pattern writer. I applaud her efforts. To understand how she writes her pattern requires being very familiar with crochet terminology and patterns in general. Or locating instructions/terms unfamiliar to you in a crochet book or online crochet information source. Here is a great one:http://www.craftyarncouncil.
To help you decipher her instructions I suggest you copy and paste into a word processor and then begin labeling rows and rounds. Make sure you understand *the stitch pattern* (the crocodile stitch) as noted in the first paragraph following the initial chains: *sc in first dc, sk 2 dc, 5 dc in next, sk 2 dc* (this makes what I will call 5dc (stitch) pattern for the rest of the (mermaid) pattern) My (stitch) pattern ended on a sc. ch 2 and turn”
Note on the color changes. I started changing color after the first 5dc pattern row and changed color after each row. Being that I was using 3 different yarns that made things easier and less ends to weave in because I never bound off at the end of the row. I simply dropped one color, picked up the next and went. Now, I did NOT carry behind the work. I truly just let it stay there. Believe it or not, it works and doesn’t mess up the color pattern you are doing. After you have all three colors joined in you will see that when you end a row you just pick up the strand you had left before. Sounds so much more difficult than it really is, but so much a time saver not having to weave in all those ends.
Also note. Your work might not be the exact same counts as mine. That’s cool. It might end on a sc where I had 3dc. That’s cool. It is really just that 5 dc shell pattern you want for the scales. If your row ends on a sc, ch 2 turn, 2dc in first then go with the pattern. If your row ends on a dc group, sc in last st, ch 1 turn and sc in first the go with the pattern. It is really simple once you get used to it.
To start, ch 153 (this gave me the width I was looking for, so if you are altering for a different size start with a chain that works for your project)
dc in third chain and across, chain 1
*sc in first dc, sk 2 dc, 5 dc in next, sk 2 dc* (this makes what I will call 5dc pattern for the rest of the pattern) My pattern ended on a sc. ch 2 and turn
2dc in first st (that last sc), sk 2 st, sc in the 3rd dc of the 5 dc shell, sk 2 st, then follow the 5dc pattern until last sc where you only do 3dc, ch 1 and turn
sc in first st, sk 2 st, then follow the 5dc pattern until the end where you sc in that last st/dc. ch 2 and turn
Now you just do those last two rows for 72 5dc pattern rows. This made the lapghan go down to about the calf length (in case you are re-sizing the pattern).
Now we are going to start going in rounds instead of rows. How you might ask? Very carefully… Make sure when you pull the ends together the right side of the first row of dc is facing out. Or not, either way would be fine I imagine honestly. Just keep the strands of the none working yarn to the back/inside of the tail and change colors where it looks best to you.
What follows is how I brought the two sides together so I could work more of a spiral because that made things easier on me and doesn’t leave a seam. Truly, you could just do what makes sense to you as you look at the work in your hands. As long as you are still doing the 5dc pattern, it will all be good. Just relax and have a drink and go with it.
Sl st to the 1st dc of the row, ch 1, sc in joining, then proceed on with 5 dc pattern.
Sl st to 1st sc, changing colors, ch 2 and 4dc in same as join. 5 dc pattern to last sc. Now sc tog last sc to the 2nd dc from the beginning, make sure to change color.
Ch 1, sc in same as join then go on with the 5 dc pattern.
From here you should be able to just go in a spiral, changing colors as you get back to the start of the spiral. I did a total of 20 rounds counting from the beginning of the original join. This took the me down to about covering the foot when the foot is pointed.
Now you get to start bringing it in to a close. So that means you are almost done!
Keep doing the pattern and color changing around, but instead of the 5dc, do only 3dc, still skipping 2 stitches. On the 2nd, 3rd and 4th round only sk 1 st in-between the dc and the sc. Do this for a total of 4 3dc pattern rounds.
Then you are going to 3dc, sc tog (tog is also known as a decrease) where the next 2 sc would go (in the 2nd dc of the 3 dc group). Do your 3dc pattern until every 3rd sc spot, then sc tog.
Next round, change colors in the first sc spot, 3dc then sc tog (in the 2nd dc of the 3 dc group). Do your 3dc patten until every 3rd sc spot, then sc tog.
This next round 3dc, sc tog over the next 2 sc spot. Do your 3rd dc patten until every 3rd sc spot, then sc tog.
This should leave it almost closed up and you tired of turning your work around and around. So go ahead and change colors in the first sc, then sc tog where every sc spot should be for 2 rounds.
Bind off, and leave a tail so you can go ahead and sew the tail closed.
Join your yarn on the outside of the opening where you joined the rounds and sc around the opening. Placing 3 sc in the corners. Bind off and weave in the end.
Feels great to be done with that part doesn’t it? Now on to the much easier to do fin. Again, I sized it for the lapghan I was working on.
Fin
I did the fin in the variegated yarn. If you want a thicker fin, use two strands held together. The fin shape will have a straight side with the opposite side decreasing in, then increasing back out. The straight side will be the top where you do your sc tog to then sew it on the tail.
Another option on the tail can be found here (https://handcraftsofjoy.com/2015/10/14/handcrafts-of-joys-mermaid-tail-fin-pattern/) it works up well and it is a bigger version of what I did.
Ch 43
dc in 4th chain and dc across, ch 2 and turn
*dc tog, dc in rest of stitches, ch 2 and turn
dc across, dc tog in last two dc, ch 2 and turn*
repeat this pattern for a total of 5 times
now do 2 dc tog, dc in rest of stitches, ch 2 and turn
dc across and do 2 dc tog in last 4 st, ch 2 and turn
2 dc in each of the next 2 st, dc across, ch 2 and turn
dc across, put 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc, ch 2 and turn
*2 dc in first dc, dc across, ch 2 and turn
dc across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 and turn*
repeat this pattern for a total of 5 times
dc across, ch 1 and turn
sc around, making sure to put 3 sc in the corners except the last corner you come to. Ch 1 and turn so that now you are working on the top of the fin (where you just have a bunch of dc, not the dc tog or 2dc)
sc tog across, ch 1
sc tog across, ch 1
*sc tog, sc* ch 1
*sc tog, sc * ch 1
bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Now you are going to sew this where the bottom of your fin is… where you sewed it close. It is worth noting that I sewed the sides of the sc rows to the tail as well as the sc. I thought it looked better and helped hold the fin out.
There you have it… a cozy mermaid tail!
Mad Hooking!
I am having issues with closing up the end. I don’t know what I am missing. Are the 4 rows of the 3dc rows closing it up also? I am not sure what I am doing wrong 🙁
They are, but think of the first row of 3dc as decrease and the other 3 rows as working even for just a moment.
Ok I get that but when I get to the next few rows to close it up. Mine doesn’t seem to decrease quickly to close it up. I am not sure I am doing it correctly the 3dc and sctog doesn’t seem to be working for me. I am not sure what I am doing wrong 🙁
The sc tog (decrease) should start with drawing up a loop from the 2nd dc in the next 3dc group then draw to loop in the 2nd dc of the next group. Essentially you are skipping a 3dc group.
If I understand correctly, you start the fin with 43 dcs. then you decrease and the middle is where you sew the fin to the body. start 43 dc, do the middle dec and the do the other side of the fin by increasing to match the first side? Sew the middle to the body? Is this correct??????? thank you for your help.
You don’t need to bind off after the decrease rows. Just keep going, but on the side you have been decreasing, you’ll be increasing.
Iguess I do not understand then. You decrease so there is a flat center. then you increase to make the other side of the fin?????? to match the first side? What side of the fin do you sew to the bottom of the body?
I am ding mine in one (1) color…What row do you do AFTER you get the 72 rows dine ?
That is where you should bring the ends together to start the rounds.
Words cannot express how excited I am to make this for my daughter!! I also bought “the pattern” and was so disappointed! Thank you for not only writing yours out but sharing it with us. You are amazing!!
Nephew’s sweetie shared your mermaid photo on her Facebook page… She is obsessed with mermaids! Wanted to surprise her without breaking the bank. Found Red Heart “Macaw” colored yarn at the local Walmart and silver and blue sequin packets (my niece is using a hole punch to ‘punch out’ the bigger ones for me). So far, so good! Thank you for sharing your talent 🙂
The punched holes in the sequins are big enough to fit the g hook right through… So I am able to just add the sequin into the 3rd fx of the shell pattern every so often. Looks awesome, and no tedious sewing on of sequins. Easy Peasy!
About the fin> you do ch 43 is this the first part of the fin? middle (dec) is for sewing to the bottom?
and the other side is the second part of the fin???????????? I guess I don’t understand the instructions, sorry.
I still need help with the fin? I am at the middle of it, did the 43 stitches(beg) and now in the middle which seems the same up until you start the SECOND part of the fin. Do you just increase until you get the 43 sti. on the other end to match the first 43? and what part do you sew to the body?
I am sorry to be such a pest. I have been crocheting most of my life(85) and I am having a hard time understanding the directions.
thank you in advance…………and again sorry to be such a pest……….
Beatrice… I haven’t made it to the fin yet, but I was looking over the instructions and get the impression that the 43 stitches is the length of the fin and the dc tog ( decrease) for several rows followed by the 2 dc (increase) for several rows, is what develops the cleft or scallop of the fin. Which, from how I am reading this, would mean that the end of your original ch 43 that does not increase or decrease would be the edge that attaches to the body of the lapghan…. I expect to be working on the fin within a few days….if Shelley hasn’t clarified the pattern by the, I’ll let you know how I make out. If you figure it out before then, share please 🙂 Good luck!
This is exactly it! Thanks for explaining better than I could at the moment!
Shelly: thank you so much for your reply. I THINK I can see it now! (still not sure)
Just keep going. It might make more sense as you make it than in your head. That happens to me all the time.
I just select the pages to print or copy her directions onto word and print . I can’t wait do this for my daughter we are going to disney this fall and I know she will love this .
Hi!
Thank you so much for this pattern! I’m itching to make it! I was wondering how i would adjust it down to toddler size? I would love to make this for my best friends little 2 year old! Any help for size adjustments would be VERY appreciated!
~~lisa
My daughter purchased both the $7. pattern and the expensive yarn and asked me to crochet the mermaid’s tail for an artist friend of hers who is “crazy nutz” about mermaids. Both are in my possession and I’m having a problem determining where to begin and which color to use because the pattern calls for 4 colors and the chart indicates Colors A, B, and C and there is no distinct instruction regarding colors. I can only think I’m supposed to think MC, A, B and C and count the motifs so marked, leaving the rest for MC!
I think I just figured it out! If it doesn’t work I definitely will use Madhooker’s and I’m going to pass this site to my other daughter who told me her granddaughter wants one.
There are 4 colors on the chart. The blue and green look similar. I’ve made one and working on a second while doubling the size.
I am so SORRY for my post the other day…I DID NOT read the pattern right..Again..I am SORRY…
Lol! That’s cool then. I really got worried about it for a moment there…
Just ran across this pattern and thought it looked like such fun—was so glad to see someone had made a free pattern. I didn’t look at the others—but I know I wouldn’t want to be doing motifs and crocheting them together. I thought this would be a lot or fun for my grandkids—-so will have to wait and see if anyone does a child size version–or if I try this one–and then can figure out how to make a child size version myself. It is great for the girls—-be we have more grandsons. I was talking to my teenage son about it, and nentioned that there are memen, it could be done in boys colors—-but then a new Idea popped into my head—not sure if it would work quite as well. But my ides is—–what about instead of putting fins—-crocheting graduating sized balls that are filled with some thing that rattles, and make a “rattlesnake” lapghan for a boy? What do you think?
Ah, now you did it… I’m going to have to go get some more yarn (because none of the giant tubs of extra yarn I have is just right) and see what I can come up with… Oh and it has to rattle!
There are 4 colors to the graph. Blue, green, purple and pink. It’s a great pattern. I’m working on a second one which I’m making double the size.
Maybe using the back loops on the stitches will make the “scales” stand out more? I tried it. It looks ok.
I am actually going to try this on the one I’m starting tonight and see how it works.
Is there a knitted version…I love this, but only knot???
*knit
I still do not get it.,but sometimes I make the easiest most complicated! thanks for your reply
Thank you so much! I am making this right now. I sell the things I crochet as well and cocoons are big for babies right now but I’ve been asked to make larger ones. Thank you so much for the pattern!!
Kristy.
Nickerdoodles.weebly.com
Hi, I was tagged in a photo on FB last night by my daughter and what a delight when I had a look. I have 2 little great nieces and they would love these. After looking at the paid pattern I also took a look at your blog and just want to give you a huge thank you for the free pattern, the hints and the fact that you have saved me a lot of stress judging from the comments posted and now can’t wait to go out and purchase some yarn and give this a go. Thank you again.
I just got a facebook post from my daughter – said our grand/ & great grand daughters would really love them (age 5 & 9) The pic she sent was of the paid pattern – I ordered it – looks to complicated for me – glad I found your pattern.
Thank you so much
Hi there! I was just wondering with this pattern do I sc after the 5 dc or just the 5 dc then skip? That was the only part I was confused about. Also how difficult do you think it would be to make it so the entire thing was like a cocoon? How many do you think I would have to chain to start? Thank you!
You sc in between the 5dc shells. To make the whole thing a cocoon should be relatively easy. The starting chain would have to be the entire diameter around plus a few inches for room… The decrease would have to be more gentle starting around the knee. I would think if you could decrease just right from knee to calf where the calf stitch count is same as this pattern, you could just use this Patten for the rest…
I’m thinking I may just use variegated yarn all the way through so I don’t have to mess with the color changes. Would that work? I have someone asking me to make one for them and I thought that might be a bit more simple and less time consuming. Do you think it would look ok?
I don’t see why not. The color changes though are made so much easier if you use the technique I did. With 3 or more strands you can just just drop one color at the end of the row and pick up a new one.
How could I make this to a child size? I’m only an OK crocheter so I’m not sure where I would need to start shortening it and I’m assuming 153 stitches is too many?
My guess is yes, but it would depend on the kid… My 9 year old I would make it this size just to give him growing room. I did include the measurements in the pattern for reference so I hope that helps.