Darth Vader

Again I find myself in need of a pattern and not a free suitable one in sight. My original Norbert Calendar was a hit that I didn’t realize that so many people liked. We didn’t make one this year and had many people inquire about it… so here I go again.

I wanted to make a roughly 6″ Darth Vader and Storm Troopers. I do have a long standing grump about paying for patterns, so I’ve decided to pay homage to these iconic characters in yarm. I freely give this pattern out for others to celebrate them as well.

Worsted weight yarn i(or any weight of your choosing) n black, dark grey, red and green
Size G hook (or whatever hook to make a tight crochet with your yarn)
Safety eyes, 12mm
Poly-fil for stuffing

Legs(make two)
8 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
dec x4, sc x8
dec x2, sc x8 (by this round it should be 10sc) Stuff foot and continue to stuff as you go.
sc around for 8 rounds. Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Now about joining the legs, what you need to do is hold the legs together and sl st through both the legs twice in the middle where they meet, from the front of the legs to the back. Then continue around the legs. You should end with 2 sl st and 16 sc (8 sc around each leg). Moving on to the body you will forgo the sl st and only work in the sc.

Body
sc around for 3 rounds
*dec, 3* x3, sc, make sure to continue to stuff as you go
sc around for 8 rounds
sc, dec, dec, 2 sec, dec, dec
dec around, Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make two)
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
*dec, sc in next 2* around, make sure to stuff lightly as you go
sc around for 10 rounds. Bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew onto the sides of the body.

Upper body armor
4 sc in magic circle, ch 1 and turn
*inc, sc* across, ch 1 and turn
sc across, switch colors to dark grey, ch 1 and turn
sc across, switch back to black, ch 1 and turn
sc across for 3 round, switch colors to dark grey, ch 1 and turn
sc across, switch back to black, ch 1 and turn
*dec, sc* across, ch 1 and turn
dec x2, ch 1 and sc around the armor
sl, ,st to first sc of the round going around the armor, bind off and leave a long tail. Sew this to the top of the body (no need to stuff, just push the ends under as you sew), the sides hanging down over the ‘shoulders’.

Head
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
*inc, sc* around
sc around for 5 round, insert safety eyes between rounds 4 and 5, leaving about 3 sc in between.
*dec, sc* around, be sure to stuff
dec around, bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew in the middle of the upper body armor.

Mouth
ch 2, ,3 sc in first ch, ch 1 and turn
sc across, ch 1 and turn
sc, sc inc, sc, bind off, leave a tail and sew to face. Stuff the end behind as you sew. Sew two vertical lines in grey for accent markings.

Helmet
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
*inc, sc* around
sc in next 2, hdc and dc in next, dc and hdc in next, sc in the rest. Ch 1 and turn
sc in the next 12, ch 1 and turn. Repeat this for 6 rows. Ch 1 and sc around the helmet, put 3 sc in the bottom points/corners of the back of the helmet (the sc rows). Bind off, leave a tail and sew onto the head.
Ch 18 and bind off, leave a tail and sew down the middle of the helmet starting between the eyes.

Belt
Start with black and ch 19. Sc in second chain from hook and across. Ch 1 and turn
sc across, bind off with a long tail to sew around his middle.
In grey, for the buckle, ch 5, sc in the second chain from hook and across. Ch 1 and turn
sc across, bind off with a long tail to sew to the front of the belt.

Abdomen light box
ch 6, sc in second chain from hook, ch 1 and turn
sc across, ch 1 and turn. Repeat for a total of 4 rows. Bind off with a long tail to sew on the abdomen. Before you sew though, use the blue, red and grey to add some accent lines.

Cape
Now, with the cape you can attach some felt or cloth if you prefer. I went ahead and crocheted one up so I could include it in these instructions and as a matter of preference as well.
ch 27, dc in the third chain from hook and across, ch 2 (does not count as a st) and turn
dc across, ch 2 and turn for total of 12 rows. Sc around it all, putting 3 sc in each corner. When you get back to the beginning of the sc around, sl st to the first one and tie a little knot leaving a long tail for sewing.
Now to make your life easier to make the gathered look of the top of the cape use your needle to help weave the end in about every 2-3 stitches along the top. When you get to the end, gently pull and compare it to where you will sew the cape to the upper body armor then sew it on. 

And that’s all there is!
Mad Hooking!

Flasher Banana (slightly NSFW)

This pattern began as someone messaging me on Facebook.  They couldn’t find the pattern anywhere and wanted to make it for a friend of theirs that has cancer.  I’ve been wanting to write more patterns of my own up and I loved this idea and reasons!  Not to mention this is right up my alley….

This is worked in the round as typical for amigurumi.  Mine turned out to be about 10″ tall.  I choose to make it a little larger and not use wire for the arms and legs.  This way it is washable!

G hook
12mm safety eyes
worsted weight yarn in yellow, white and black
polyfill for stuffing
Start with black
6 sc in magic circle
*inc, sc* around
sc around then change to yellow (leave a long end of black here on the outside to make sewing the eyebrows and mouth a little easier on yourself if you want)
In back loops only (just for this round) sc around
*inc, sc in next 2* around
sc around for 2 rounds
*inc, sc in next 3* around
sc around for 3 rounds
*inc, sc in next 4* around
sc around for 3 rounds
*inc, sc in next 5* around
sc around for 3 rounds
*inc, sc in next 6* around
sc around for 3 rounds then change to white
in back loops only (just for this round) sc around
Take a moment to insert the safety eyes before moving on.  Count down 11/12 rounds of yellow and place them with 4 stitches in between. Also, stuff the head at least to eye level to make your life easier and then keep stuffing as you go. Keep in mind that as you stuff you are also giving it that slightly curved shape as well.  This is the easiest way since it is just a slight curve than to get fancy with the stitches I have found.
sc around for 6 rounds
*dec, sc in next 6* around
sc around for 3 rounds
*dec, sc in next 5* around
sc around for 3 rounds
*dec, sc in next 4* around
sc around for 3 rounds
*dec, sc in next 3* around
sc around for the next 3 rounds
*dec, sc in next 2* around
sc around for the next 2 rounds
*dec, sc* around
dec around then bind off and weave in the end
Now, turn your banana upside down with the yellow end facing down.  Locate the approximate middle of the back where you did the round of back loop only in yellow before changing to white.  This may or may not be the beginning of the round, but it doesn’t matter.  (Also, you may be off a stitch or two.  It’ll be fine.  I’m not one for counting exactly as you may have noticed from my patterns.  I like stress free as possible.) Join your yellow yarn here and continue as follows:
ch 1 and sc around in the front loops only then sl st to beginning (ch does not count as a stitch)
ch 1 and then sc around to the front stopping about halfway, in the middle,  Leave the rest of this round unworked for now and turn.
ch 1 and sc back to where you started then turn
ch 1, sc across then turn for 3 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches (it really is a dec, dec basically since you should be down to 4 or 5 stitches.
ch 1, sc across then turn for 2 rows
ch 1, then dec across the last stitches, cut and bind off yarn.
Now, join yarn in the last sc you worked before turning (yeah, the same, not the next one).
ch 1 and then sc around to the back stopping at the last stitch before the peal you just made.
ch 1 and sc back to where you started then turn
ch 1, sc across then turn for 3 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches
ch 1, sc across then turn for 4 rows
ch 1, dec, sc across then dec over the last 2 stitches (it really is a dec, sc, dec basically since you should be down to 3 stitches. At least I was.. if you aren’t it should be close and it will be fine.
ch 1, sc across then turn for 2 rows
ch 1, then dec across the last stitches.  It was a dec over 3 for me.
ch 1, turn then sc evenly up and down both sides of the peals. Place 2 sc at the tips of the peals. Sl st then bind off and weave in ends.
Legs, make two and make them both before sewing as it makes it easier to get an even amount of stuffing in each.
start with black
6 sc in magic circle
*inc* around
*inc, sc* around
sc around
6 dec, 6sc
sc around, change to white and making sure to stuff as you go.  Keep it stuffed pretty tightly as it will help him stand, but try to keep the bottom fairly flat.
sc around for 12 rounds, bind off leaving a long tail to sew.
To sew on, keep in mind that the legs go down with the bottom of the banana facing out.  I found it best to turn the banana to the side, count down about 10-12 white rows, pinch the top of the legs closed and then sew onto the banana. Some people find it easier to pin in place before sewing and it might make it easier to line them up better.
Arms, make two and make them both before sewing as it makes it easier to get an even amount of stuffing in each.
with yellow
6 sc in magic circle
*inc* around
sc around
8 sc, 3 dc in same st, 3 sc (make sure to push the dc outwards to create a thumb)
8 sc, dec over the next 3 dc, 3 sc
*dec, sc* around and stuff the hand to hold shape and stuff very lightly as you go so it bends easily
sc around for 10 rounds.
To sew on, pinch the top of the arms closed and sew it onto the yellow part of the banana about 3-4 rows above the peal.  Make sure to have the thumbs facing up.  I did sew at a slight slant from back to front, but that’s me.  I then ran the yarn on the inside of the arms to the hands to sew the peal into place so it look like he is holding open the peals.
Finally take the black yarn and sew on the face and eyebrows and you’re done!
Mad Hooking!

Hanging Baby Feet

 

So, I was presented with a picture of a knitted pattern by Sandra Mceachran asking if I had anything similar.  I didn’t, but it was a little challenge and got the hamster in my head kicking a little… just a little mind you.  It was early and she hadn’t had enough caffeine.  After a few cups of coffee, I had a plan of action…

I went back and forth about toe down or sewing on the toes. Going by the picture I went with the toe down and less sewing because let’s face it, I’m all for less sewing on my crochet projects!
G hook (or whatever hook you prefer for your amigurumi projects and so the stuffing doesn’t show)
Yarn of choice (I happened to have pink Bernat worsted weight near me at the time)
Ribbon if wanted for hanging or yarn (I used a satin finish 15mm wide ribbon)
poly-fil
So, make two of these.  It is the same on the front as the back so flipping one makes the other foot…
Also, mine ended up being about 6.5 inches from big toe to heel.
Little Toes, 3 per foot:
6sc in magic circle
*inc, sc in next 2* around
sc for 2 rounds then bind off
Pinky Toe, 1 per foot:
6sc in magic circle
sc around for 2 rounds then bind off
Foot, starting with the big toe:
6sc in magic circle
*inc, sc* around
sc around
*inc, sc in next 2*
sc around
*dec, sc in next 2*
Ok, here’s where it can get tricky.  Just take one stitch at a time and it will be fine.
sc in next 3, then crochet together the second toe (draw up a loop in the current toe, draw up a loop in the new toe, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
sc in next 2, crochet together third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together fourth toe, sc in next 2, crochet together the pinky toe, sc in next 4 (around the pinky toe), crochet together to the fourth toe, sc in next 2,crochet together to the third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the second toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the big toe, sc in next 4 and you should be back to the beginning with a slightly curling weird thing that resembles toes.  It gets to looking better, trust me. Go ahead and stuff all the endings from the toes into the toes to get them out of your way.
Sc around for 2 rows (total of 31 stitches for those keeping count)
Inc in first stitch, sc around until the last 2 stitches.  Inc in the last 2
Sc around for 4 rounds
Sc in next 14 stitches, dec, sc in next 14, dec, dec
Sc around
Sc in next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next 12, dec, dec
*sc in next 5, dec* around
Sc around for 2 rounds then take a break and make sure those toes are stuffed the way you would like.
Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc around
 Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc around for 3 rounds
Sc in next 11 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc in next 10 stitches, dec, dec, sc in rest
*dec, sc in next 5* around
*dec, sc in next 4* around, stuff and shape as needed.  Don’t get carried away and stuff too firmly, you want it to be kinda flatish.
*dec, sc in next 3* around
*dec* around, leaving a long tail to sew close
That’s all… you can sew them together and then sew a ribbon on back for hanging or whatever you want to do with the feet!
Tip:  How I sewed my feet together I just made sure that the second foot I left a really long tail and sewed the end closed, placed the other foot next to it and went from there.  I then made the ribbon and used the same tail to sew that to the feet.  Less chance of things coming undone and certainly less threading of the needle.
Mad Hooking!

Pilgrims and Indians

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So as some of you know I have been working on a Norbert Calendar of sorts… essentially our bearded dragon dressed up in crochet with other crochet items around him. Silly, yes, but it has been so fun honestly. Well I was on to month November and could not find a set of Pilgrims and Indians (those being the hardest) that would work. In typical fashion then here goes my own pattern in case others need or want to make up some. They should be roughly 6 inches tall, but the hats make them a little bigger… Also, no, these are not historically correct, they are simple little patterns for what I had in my head as a typical set from when I was growing up. Also, yes, I know I should say Native Americans and no, I’m not going to enter in that debate…

For the base of the body I turned to a wonderful pattern already done since it met my needs for the most part. You can find the basic pattern here in case you want to use it (http://www.amigurumitogo.com/2015/08/wee-ones-basic-body-pattern.html). Also, check out the other patterns she has listed… very nice work!

Using a G hook with some miscellaneous worsted weight yarn I had around and poly fil for stuffing. I went with 6mm safety eyes as well.

Starting with the Pilgrims

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Pilgrim Boy

img_20161030_140258

 

 

 

 

 

 

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to black
15) IN BLO, 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-20) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
change to grey
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
change back to black
23-24) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two in black, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to black
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Pilgrim Collar
So for this it is going to be a bit tricky at first. With the body of the pilgrim facing head down attach your yarn in the FLO at the neck where you worked in the BLO. Your first st will be just to the right of the right eye (when the pilgrim is right side up).
1) ch 4 and 2 tc in the same st
do 2dc in next st
2hdc in each st until the last 2 st
then 2 dc in next st
3tc in the next st, bind off and weave in the end

Pilgrim Hat
In black
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) in BLO sc around
5-6) sc around
7) 1 sc in next 2 then 2sc (24)
8-9) sc around
10) in FLO 1sc in next 3 then 2sc (30)
11) 1sc in next 4 then 2sc (36)
12) 1sc in next 5 then 2sc (42)
13) 1sc in next 6 then 2sc (48)
14) sc around
Bind off, leaving a tail for sewing. Weave the tail back to row 10 and sew on top of your Pilgrim’s head, making sure to stuff lightly before completely sewing close.
Lastly go ahead and sew on a belt buckle and a buckle on the hat… then a nose and mouth if you wish.

 

Pilgrim Girl

img_20161030_140321

 

 

 

 

 

 

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to black
15) IN BLO, 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17) In BLO 1 sc in each
18-24) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two in black, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to black
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Pilgrim Collar
So for this it is going to be a bit tricky at first. With the body of the pilgrim facing head down attach your yarn in the FLO at the neck where you worked in the BLO. Your first st will be just to the right of the left eye (when the pilgrim is right side up), essentially in the middle.
1) ch 4 and 2 tc in the same st
do 1 tc and 1dc in next st
2hdc in each st until the last 2 st
then 2 dc and 1tc in next st
3tc in the next st, bind off and weave in the end.

Pilgrim Dress
So with doll facing you count 4 st to the left from center of the FLO of row 17 and place a marker here. Now attach your black yarn at the back of the doll (doll now head down) in the FLO of the BLO only row from the body.
1) sc around, move your marker up to this row, Sl st to first hdc
2) hdc around until you get to your marker. At the marker hdc in BLO for the next 8 st (you don’t need the marker anymore unless you want to leave it so it is easier to find this spot again for the apron part). Hdc in the rest of the st using both loop around, Sl st to first hdc
3) 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next st around . Sl st to first hdc.
4-7) hdc around, Sl st to first hdc. Bind off and weave in ends.
Apron
1) ch 22 then attach your yarn to the FLO of the 2nd row of the dress and sc in the 8 st. ch1 and turn
2) 1 hdc then 2 hdc in next across, ch1 and turn
3-6) hdc across, ch 1 and turn. After last row bind off and weave in ends. The beginning ch should be sewn around the back of the body to the other side of the apron.

Pilgrim Bonnet
done in white
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1 sc in next 24 st, ch 1 and turn
7-10) hdc in next 24 st, ch 1 and turn
11) ch 10 then starting in 2nd ch, 2sc in each ch going back up to the bonnet. Sc around the bottom of the bonnet to the other side then ch 10 then starting in 2nd ch, 2sc in each ch going back up to the bonnet. Sc around the front to the other tie then bind off, leaving a tail to sew on to the Pilgrim head. Now, to note, I did design the hat a little bit bigger than absolutely necessary. This I did in case I wanted to add hair, but I choose not to. Just know that it might be a little loose or you can add hair if you want.

 

Now for the Indians

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Indian Boy

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start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to medium brown
15) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-20) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
change to dark brown
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
change back to medium brown
23-24) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two starting with the dark brown, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
switch to light brown
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to medium brown
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Hair
So I decided the hair was the next step. I simply cut some black yarn about 10-12 inches long and latch hooked them in the head just at the front hair line. I didn’t have a reason to do the whole head, but if you want have fun. I then tied the hair at the nape of the neck with a piece of red yarn. Gave him a slight trim and that was his hair…

Headdress
With a green I simply did a chainless sc foundation row (or if you want a chain then go back and sc the length of the chain) the length that would fit his head. This will depend slightly on how thick his hair is and your crochet style. For me, it was a total of 22.
Now for the feathers. This is really just like a simple leaf pattern. Make as many as you want to decorate the back of the headdress and in your chosen colors.
1) ch 7, then sc, sc, hdc, dc,hdc, sc
2) now working in the opposite side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Leave a long tail, weave it back to the bottom of the feather (gives it more stability and helps to close up any spaces) and sew it to the beginning of the chainless sc foundation row. This is going to be the back of the headdress with the feathers against the hair when you sew it on the head.
Go ahead and finish sewing the headdress on around his head.

 

Indian Girl

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start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to medium brown
15) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-22) 1 sc in each for 6
23) In BLO 1 sc in each
24) 1sc in each st
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two starting with dark brown, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
switch to medium brown
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to medium brown
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Indian dress
With the doll head facing down, attach your yarn anywhere really in the FLO only of round 23 with the medium brown.
1) sc around in the FLO, no need to join, just go in a spiral
2-4) hdc around
Now, locate the rough middle of the front and back, then mark them with a stitch marker or another color yarn.
5) hdc until 1 st before the marker, dc in next st, 2 tc in next, dc in next then hdc around until 1 st before the marker, dc in next st, 2 tc in next, dc in next then hdc around to end of row. Switch to red
6) sc around, bind off and weave in end

Hair
So I decided the hair was the next step. I simply cut some black yarn about 12-13 inches long and latch hooked them in the head just at the front hair line, back and down the middle. I didn’t have a reason to do the whole head, but if you want have fun. I then tied the hair at the sides of the neck with a piece of red yarn. Gave her a slight trim and that was her hair…

Headdress
With a green I simply did a chainless sc foundation row (or if you want a chain then go back and sc the length of the chain) the length that would fit her head. This will depend slightly on how thick his hair is and your crochet style. For me, it was a total of 22.
Now for the feathers. This is really just like a simple leaf pattern. Make as many as you want to decorate the back of the headdress and in your chosen colors.
1) ch 7, then sc, sc, hdc, dc,hdc, sc
2) now working in the opposite side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Leave a long tail, weave it back to the bottom of the feather (gives it more stability and helps to close up any spaces) and sew it to the beginning of the chainless sc foundation row. This is going to be the back of the headdress with the feathers against the hair when you sew it on the head.
Go ahead and finish sewing the headdress on around her head.

Mad Hooking!

Zero the Ghost Dog

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Again, couldn’t find a pattern to quite fit what I wanted so here is my Zero lovey. I wanted to write down the pattern because many people seem to want zero and I forget how I did it before… Also, I’m going to use typical amigurumi method and way of writing the pattern.

G and H hooks
Orange, white and a little bit of Black yarn (or black 9mm safety eyes)
Polyfil
Darning needle
Stitch markers

With Orange and the G hook
6sc in mc
Round 1: *inc*
Round 2: *Inc, sc*
Rounds 3-5: *sc*
Round 6: *Dec, sc* stuff lightly
Round 7: *dec* switch to white on last sc
Round 8: *inc*
Round 9: *Inc, sc*
Round 10: *Inc, 2sc*
Round 11-28 : *sc*
Round 29: *Inc, sc* x4 then sc in remaining
Round 30: *Inc, 2sc* x4 then sc in remaining
Round 31-36: sc around
Round 37: *Inc, 3sc* x4 then sc in remaining
Round 38: *Inc, 4sc* x4 then sc in remaining
Round 39-45: sc  around
Round 46: *Dec, 6sc*
Round 47: *Dec, 5sc*
Round 48: *Dec, 4sc*
Round 49: *Dec, 3sc*
If you are using safety eyes they need put in between rounds 42-43 on each side of the head. Stuff the head as well.
Round 50: *Dec, 2sc*
Round 51: *Dec, 1sc*
Round 52: *Dec, sc*
Round 53: *dec* bind off and sew closed.

Ears (make 2)
Using H hook and white
Row 1: (leaving a long tail for sewing later) Ch 6, hdc in 2nd chain from hook and across for a total of 5 hdc
Row 2-14: Ch 1, hdc across (5hdc)
Row 15: Ch 1, hdc dec,  hdc across (4hdc)
Row 16: Ch 1, hdc dec,  hdc across (3hdc)
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc dec,  hdc across (2hdc) bind off, weave in end

Sew ears to round 44 with ears flopping down toward the eyes. Top of ear roughly lines up with the eye.

Body
Using H hook and white yarn
Row 1: Ch 6, sl st in 1st to form ring
Row 2: Ch 2 (ch 2 does not count as a stitch), 4 dc in ring, ch 1, 4dc in ring, ch 2 and turn
Row 3-10: 2dc in first dc, dc in each dc to ch 1 space. In ch 1 work (2dc, ch 1, 2dc). Dc in each dc, 2 dc in last. Ch 2 and turn.
Row 11-19: 3dc in first dc, dc in each dc to ch 1 space. In ch 1 work (2dc, ch 1, 2dc). Dc in each dc, 3 dc in last. Ch 2 and turn.
Row 20: 3dc in first dc, dc in each dc to ch 1 space. 5 dc in ch 1 space. Dc in each dc, 3 dc in last. Ch 1.
Row 21: 3 sc in first. Sc down to the 5 dc group, sc in first 2 dc, 3 sc in 3rd dc, sc in last 2 dc. Sc to last dc. In last dc place 3sc. Sc across the top.

Sew head onto body. Sew with black a jack o lantern face onto the nose. Sew also a smile on you ghost dog.

Mad hooking!

Animal balls: Panda

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I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5.  Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!

Panda Ball

Size G hook
9mm safety eyes or small buttons
Some black and white yarn

Eyes
6 sc in magic circle, but don’t close tightly if you are using the safety eyes
2 sc in next, 2 hdc in next, sc and sl st in next.
bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The safety eye will slide through the magic circle then through the ball (when we get to putting the eyes on) and then you can sew the black spot you just made in place.

Ball
6 sc in magic circle
*inc (2sc in next sc)* around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
*inc, 1sc in next 2* around
*inc, 1sc in next 3* around
*inc, 1sc in next 4* around
Sc around for 2 rows then switch to black. Sc around for 5 rows then switch back to white for 2 more rows.
*dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around
*dec, 1sc in next 3* around
*dec, 1sc in next 2* around
Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late. It is easier to wait until after you have finished it off the ball to sew the eye patch in place.
*dec, 1sc in next 1* around
Dec around, bind off and sew close.

Tail
6 sc in magic circle
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around. Bind off and sew on.

Ears
6 sc in magic circle
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around for two rows. Bind off, flatten and sew on.

Now just sew on a cute nose and mouth and you are done.

Mad Hooking!

Animal balls: Zebra

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I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5.  Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!

Zebra Ball

Size G hook
9mm safety eyes or small buttons
Some black and white yarn

Ball
Note, I switched yarn every other round, just in a different random place every time.  Switch more or less is up to you and makes every zebra different. Or not at all and have a horse ball!

Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
*inc (2sc in next sc)* around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
*inc, 1sc in next 2* around
*inc, 1sc in next 3* around
*inc, 1sc in next 4* around
Sc around for 9 rows
*dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around
*dec, 1sc in next 3* around
*dec, 1sc in next 2* around
Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late.
*dec, 1sc in next 1* around
Dec around, bind off and sew close.

Muzzle
Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
*inc* around
Sc around for 2 rows, bind off, stuff and sew on. Sew two nostrils on as well.

Ears
Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
Sc around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around for 2 rows, bind off and flatten then sew on.

Hair
cut some black and white yarn roughly about 5 inches in length. Attach to the ball using latch hook method, making sure white yarn on white stripe and black yarn on black stripe. When done, trim as needed.

Mad Hooking!

4″ Doll for Cradle Purse

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I had some people interested in the cradle purses. I have personally loved these, but I was afraid today’s child wouldn’t like them.  So I decided to make up a few and see how they do, but I could not find a perfect size doll to fit and that wouldn’t be too expensive for the project. So I decided to make one, but of course I couldn’t find just the pattern I wanted… so here’s my own. My finished doll is a 4″ little peanut.

G hook
Worsted weight yarn
Polyfil for stuffing

Hat (color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 3* around
Sc around for 3 rounds
Sc around in front loop only. fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Head (skin color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
Sc around for 5 rounds
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight)
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around
*Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Body (skin color for 3 rounds then color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around (change colors)
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
Sc around for 7 rounds
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight)
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around
*Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew head onto the body then the hat to the head, angling the back of the hat to meet with the body. Embroider some closed eyes and weave in all your ends.

Mad Hooking!

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Small Top Hat

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So I needed a go to pattern for a top hat. Why? Because everyone needs a top hat every now and then! This makes a small top hat perfect for a snowman hat, cat hat or to put on a headband or clip for yourself!

I used my G size hook and some Red Heart Super Saver and I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby yarn

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 1 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
Sc around in BACK loop only
*sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
Sc around for the next 4 rounds
*sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
Sc around
Here is where I changed colors for the next 2 sc  rounds
Sc around again in primary color
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc* around
Finish off and sport your top hat!

Mad Hooking!

Baby Marshmallow

IMG_2585So I took the kids to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 and spent the whole movie thinking about what I could turn into crochet… yeah, the life of a Mad Hooker…

My first to make is the Marshmallows since they were the cutest and the first I thought of when I got home.

Baby Marshmallow – Around 2.5 inches tall

Yarn: I just used some miscellaneous white I had and a small amount of black
Hook: size “G”
Other: either 12mm black safety eyes or some black buttons

6 sc in a magic circle, do not join. She is worked in a round
1.  2sc in each st
2.  *2sc in 1 st, 1sc in next st* around
3.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 st* around
4.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st* around
5.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 4 st* around
6.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 5 st* around
7-17. Sc around
18.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 5sc* around
19.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 4sc* around
You should go ahead and insert the safety eyes now between rows 3 and 4 and stuff her lightly. Marshmallows are fluffy remember!
20.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 3sc* around
21.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 2sc* around
22.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 1sc* around
23.  *1sc over the next 2sc* around
Cut your yarn, finish closing and weave in your yarn.

Now just sew on a smile and the buttons if you choose those instead of the safety eyes and you are done!

Mad Hooking!

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