Coraline Gloves

As my daughter decided to dress up as Coraline this year for Halloween. I was thrilled! Not only have we always loved the movie, but it is an easy costume to pull together. Though she mentioned she wanted some gloves like the ones from the movie. I originally thought it would be no problem. The movie has been out for a while, I won’t have a problem finding the pattern. Yeah, in part I could… for knitting. Now if I even attempted to knit these she might get them in a few years. So, here’s my humble attempt to recreate them in crochet.

Size I hook (now, I do tend to crochet a bit tight as some others have pointed out. These gloves are meant to fit what I would consider a small/medium woman.)
worsted weight yarn in the colors of your choice/ I used orange, medium gray, olive green and a yellow green that was in my stash… great time to stash bust!

Notes:
Note on sizing. This pattern worked for me to make my daughter a pair of gloves. I tried them on her multiple times, much to her annoyance. She does have small woman size hands. They would never have fit my hands. NEVER. I also don’t know how well they would fit a smaller child since I don’t have one to try them on. This was my first foray into making gloves honestly.
Note on color changes. I found it easier to change colors and then let the ends fall to the FRONT of your work. You so don’t want to have to try and turn the glove inside out to sew in the ends later. I didn’t carry the yarn as I usually would because I was afraid of any extra loops for fingers to get caught on. Most likely just my mind.
Note on fingers. When pulling up the yarn to start another finger I found that if I left an extra long beginning ‘end’ then it made it easier to sew the webbing of the fingers together later.
Make two, they are interchangeable on the sides… or make one. Who am I to tell you what to do?

Cuff:
RND 1: Starting with orange, 25 fsc (foundation single crochet or ch 25 and a round of sc), sl st to join. This measured 8″.
RND 2: ch 1(doesn’t count for a stitch), hdc around, sl st to join
RND 3: change to yellow green, ch 1, fphdc (front post half double crochet x2 stitches, bphdc (back post half double crochet) x2 around and ends with a single fphdc and sl st to join
RND 4: ch 1, fphdc in fphdc, bphdc in bphdc, end with single fphdc and sl st to join
RND 5-6: change to olive green and repeat RND 4
RND 7: change to orange and sc around, sl st to join
RND 8: ch 1, inc (increase), 1 sc in next 10 sc, inc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 10 sc, inc in next 2 sc, sl st to join
RND 9-10: change to gray and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 11-12: change to orange and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 13-14: change to olive green, ch 1 and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 15-16: change to yellow green, ch 1 and sc around then sl st to join
RND 17: change to olive green, ch 1 and inc, sc 14, inc, sc to end, sl st to join
RND 18: ch 1, sc in next 14 sc, ch 6 and skip the next 6, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 19: change to orange, ch 1, sc in next 14, sc in the next 6 ch, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 20: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 21: change to yellow green, ch 1, sc next 12, dec (decrease), sc in next 5, dec, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 22: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 23-24: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join

PINKIE:
RND 1 – change to olive green, ch 1, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 3, sl st to first sc of this round
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in next 7 and in each ch, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to yellow green, ch 1 and sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray, ch 1 and sc around, sl st to join
RND 9: ch 1, dec x5, sl st and cut yarn leaving a long end to weave through last stitches to pull close

RING FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the pinkie, the 7th stitch from the beginning, then pull up another stitch immediately in the 8th stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in the 8th, 9th, and 10th st, ch 3, 1 sc in the third st from the baby finger on the other side of glove and the next stitch. Dec from the 3rd stitch and the first st of the backside of the pinkie, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-11: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 12: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

MIDDLE FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the pinkie, the 10th stitch from the beginning, then pull up another stitch immediately in the 11th stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in the 11th, 12th, and 13th st, ch 3, 1 sc in the third st from the ring finger on the other side of glove and the next stitch. Dec from the 3rd stitch and the first st of the backside of the ring finger, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-12: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 14: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

INDEX FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the middle finger, then pull up another stitch immediately in the next stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in next 4, inc, sc in next 3, Dec from the next stitch and the first st of the backside of the middle finger, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-11: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 12: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

THUMB
Join olive green at the first skipped stitch for the thumb.
RND 1 – ch 1 and sc in the next 6 of the skipped stitches. Place hdc dec using the st on each side of the ‘V’ of the thumb, space 6 sc across the back of the ch, hdc dec in the ‘V’ then sl st to join


RNDS 2-4: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 5-7: change to yellow green, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 8-9: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 10: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, dec, sl st to join
RND 11: ch 1, dec around, sl st to join leaving a long end to close

Now do a sc round at the bottom/beginning of the glove to make it look more finished. I do prefer to crochet in the second available hole down, not what would be the back of the chain.


Go put on a good show that you enjoy and get to weaving in the ends and complaining how much they better love these gloves and never want to go without them….
Don’t forget to sew the webbing together. Else that’s exactly where they are going to stick their fingers then look at you wondering what’s wrong and you are going to look at them swearing you thought they were smarter than that.
That’s it then.

Mad Hooking!

Granny’s Backyard Blanket

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So this was an idea I had when trying to think of more ways to use up the stash of yarn I have residing in my house. Nothing special about this one, just a bunch of granny squares.

You are going to need a total of 70 squares to make up this blanket like I did. Now, you can always choose to do it differently, but I’m going to keep these instructions to what I did for this blanket.

Blanket measures 76″ tall by 46″ wide
Made with stash worsted weight yarn and H size hook

If you need a how to for the squares:
http://www.jpfun.com/patterns/free/granny_squares/f101001_basicgranny.shtml

As far as how big I made the squares, I did a total of six rounds which makes it to on the last round you have four groups of three in-between the corners. I choose to change colors every two rounds, making as many different combinations as I could.

You will need a total of:
30 blue colored granny squares
26 green colored granny squares
5 brown colored granny squares

Now for the special granny squares. Just keep in mind to make them the same size as the plain ones. Just continue with the granny square pattern as needed.

1 owl granny square ( http://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2012/11/owl-granny-square-crochet-pattern.html?m=1)
4 of this flower granny square ( http://crochetmaryellen.blogspot.com/2007/06/easy-daisy-granny-square.html?m=1)
4 of this flower granny square ( http://rosehip.typepad.com/rose_hip_blog/2008/11/pattern.html)

Now, for the fun part! Sewing all these together! Yeah… Now I used the ladder method of invisible join. I prefer it, but if you don’t choose what works for you. Use the picture of the pattern for placement.

Finally done sewing? Now for the boarder. First three rows are basically the granny square pattern around the whole blanket.
Join in one of the corners, ch 3, 2 DC, ch 2, 3 DC. Ch 1
*In next space 3 DC, ch 1 and repeat until the corner
In corner, 3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC, ch 1* repeat around.
Now, the only thing is where two squares meet up. You are going to see the corner of one next to the corner of the other separated by the seam of sewing them together. Do your first DC in the first corner. Then you are going to do a DC tog (yarn over, insert hook in first corner, yarn over and pull through the corner. Now yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and insert hook through next corner and pull through the corner. Now yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and pull through the rest of the loops.) the last DC in the group will be in the second corner.

Pictures for reference:

IMG_20150207_160851 IMG_20150207_160905 IMG_20150207_160929 IMG_20150207_161001

Last round of the boarder
Start in a corner, ch 3, 6dc, ch 1
*in next space SC, ch1.  Then in next space 5dc* continue until corner. The corner will have 7 DC in each. However I did have it happen where I didn’t end with the SC before the corner. If this happens just put the SC, ch 1 in the last DC before the corner, 7dc, ch 1, SC in first DC, ch 1.

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And you are done!
Mad hooking!

Animal balls: Panda

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I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5.  Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!

Panda Ball

Size G hook
9mm safety eyes or small buttons
Some black and white yarn

Eyes
6 sc in magic circle, but don’t close tightly if you are using the safety eyes
2 sc in next, 2 hdc in next, sc and sl st in next.
bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The safety eye will slide through the magic circle then through the ball (when we get to putting the eyes on) and then you can sew the black spot you just made in place.

Ball
6 sc in magic circle
*inc (2sc in next sc)* around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
*inc, 1sc in next 2* around
*inc, 1sc in next 3* around
*inc, 1sc in next 4* around
Sc around for 2 rows then switch to black. Sc around for 5 rows then switch back to white for 2 more rows.
*dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around
*dec, 1sc in next 3* around
*dec, 1sc in next 2* around
Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late. It is easier to wait until after you have finished it off the ball to sew the eye patch in place.
*dec, 1sc in next 1* around
Dec around, bind off and sew close.

Tail
6 sc in magic circle
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around. Bind off and sew on.

Ears
6 sc in magic circle
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around for two rows. Bind off, flatten and sew on.

Now just sew on a cute nose and mouth and you are done.

Mad Hooking!

Animal balls: Zebra

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I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5.  Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!

Zebra Ball

Size G hook
9mm safety eyes or small buttons
Some black and white yarn

Ball
Note, I switched yarn every other round, just in a different random place every time.  Switch more or less is up to you and makes every zebra different. Or not at all and have a horse ball!

Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
*inc (2sc in next sc)* around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
*inc, 1sc in next 2* around
*inc, 1sc in next 3* around
*inc, 1sc in next 4* around
Sc around for 9 rows
*dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around
*dec, 1sc in next 3* around
*dec, 1sc in next 2* around
Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late.
*dec, 1sc in next 1* around
Dec around, bind off and sew close.

Muzzle
Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
*inc* around
Sc around for 2 rows, bind off, stuff and sew on. Sew two nostrils on as well.

Ears
Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
Sc around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around for 2 rows, bind off and flatten then sew on.

Hair
cut some black and white yarn roughly about 5 inches in length. Attach to the ball using latch hook method, making sure white yarn on white stripe and black yarn on black stripe. When done, trim as needed.

Mad Hooking!

4″ Doll for Cradle Purse

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I had some people interested in the cradle purses. I have personally loved these, but I was afraid today’s child wouldn’t like them.  So I decided to make up a few and see how they do, but I could not find a perfect size doll to fit and that wouldn’t be too expensive for the project. So I decided to make one, but of course I couldn’t find just the pattern I wanted… so here’s my own. My finished doll is a 4″ little peanut.

G hook
Worsted weight yarn
Polyfil for stuffing

Hat (color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 3* around
Sc around for 3 rounds
Sc around in front loop only. fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Head (skin color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
Sc around for 5 rounds
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight)
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around
*Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Body (skin color for 3 rounds then color of choice)

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in sc, sc in next* around (change colors)
*2 sc in sc, sc in next 2* around
Sc around for 7 rounds
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* around (make sure you stuff before hole becomes too tight)
*Dec over next 2 sc, sc in next* around
*Dec over next 2 sc* around fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew head onto the body then the hat to the head, angling the back of the hat to meet with the body. Embroider some closed eyes and weave in all your ends.

Mad Hooking!

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Tulle Dress for 12″ Doll

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There is something about the old school just pain plastic dolls that I love and think every girl should have… but of course we have to make it a pretty dress too!

H hook
Worsted weight yarn
12″ doll
Tulle
2 small buttons

Bodice

Ch 20

Ch 1 sc across, turn

Ch 5 (for button hole closure) and sc across, turn

Ch 2 (gives a smoother edge to the dress opening)  *dc in next 3 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat 1 time. Dc in next 4 sc.  *dc in next 3 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc* repeat 1 time. Dc in last 3 sc, turn

Ch 2, 4 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 6 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 4 dc, turn

Ch 2, 5 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 7 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 8 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 7 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 5 dc, turn

Ch 5, sl st in first dc. Ch 2, 6 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 9 dc (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space,  dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 10 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch 1 space, 6 dc, turn

Ch 2, 7 dc. Now you do a dc decrease in the next two ch 1 spaces. This creates the sleeves. 12 dc, dc decrease in the next two ch 1 spaces, 7 dc, turn

Ch 2, dc across, sl st in first dc created.

Ch 1, sc same as joining. *Skip 1 dc, 5dc in next, skip next dc, sc in next* repeat across ending with a 5dc fan and a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Attach tulle to the under side of last dc across row. Essentially cut the tulle just over double the length you want for the tulle skirt. Use your hook to go around the post of the dc and make a knot in the middle of the length of tulle. The knot is on the under side.

For a different look you can double up on the tulle.  Personal choices, but it seems to look quite full enough I think with the single row.
Bow

Ch 12, hdc in the 3 ch to make 10 total hdc.

Rows 2 – 5 are ch 2, hdc across. Leave a really long tail. Cut four pieces of extra tulle just a little bit larger than the hdc square. Bring the tail to the backside of the square and then place on the tulle. Now using the tail wrap tightly in the middle of the square roughly 10 or so times. Now grab a hair elastic band and place it on the back and wrap another 10ish times going through the middle of the band. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Mad Hooking!

Small Top Hat

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So I needed a go to pattern for a top hat. Why? Because everyone needs a top hat every now and then! This makes a small top hat perfect for a snowman hat, cat hat or to put on a headband or clip for yourself!

I used my G size hook and some Red Heart Super Saver and I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby yarn

6 sc in magic circle
*2 sc in each sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 1 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
Sc around in BACK loop only
*sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
Sc around for the next 4 rounds
*sc over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
Sc around
Here is where I changed colors for the next 2 sc  rounds
Sc around again in primary color
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* around
*2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc* around
Finish off and sport your top hat!

Mad Hooking!

Baby Marshmallow

IMG_2585So I took the kids to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 and spent the whole movie thinking about what I could turn into crochet… yeah, the life of a Mad Hooker…

My first to make is the Marshmallows since they were the cutest and the first I thought of when I got home.

Baby Marshmallow – Around 2.5 inches tall

Yarn: I just used some miscellaneous white I had and a small amount of black
Hook: size “G”
Other: either 12mm black safety eyes or some black buttons

6 sc in a magic circle, do not join. She is worked in a round
1.  2sc in each st
2.  *2sc in 1 st, 1sc in next st* around
3.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 st* around
4.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st* around
5.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 4 st* around
6.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 5 st* around
7-17. Sc around
18.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 5sc* around
19.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 4sc* around
You should go ahead and insert the safety eyes now between rows 3 and 4 and stuff her lightly. Marshmallows are fluffy remember!
20.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 3sc* around
21.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 2sc* around
22.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 1sc* around
23.  *1sc over the next 2sc* around
Cut your yarn, finish closing and weave in your yarn.

Now just sew on a smile and the buttons if you choose those instead of the safety eyes and you are done!

Mad Hooking!

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Momma Marshmallow

So I took the kids to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 and spent the whole movie thinking about what I could turn into crochet… yeah, the life of a Mad Hooker…

My first to make is the Marshmallows since they were the cutest and the first I thought of when I got home.

Momma Marshmallow – A little over 4 inches tall

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Yarn: I just used some miscellaneous white I had and a small amount of black
Hook: size “G”
Other: either 12mm black safety eyes or some black buttons

6 sc in a magic circle, do not join. She is worked in a round
1.  2sc in each st
2.  *2sc in 1 st, 1sc in next st* around
3.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 st* around
4.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st* around
5.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 4 st* around
6.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 5 st* around
7.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 6 st* around
8.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 7 st* around
9.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 8 st* around
10.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 9 st* around
11.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 10 st* around
12-22.  Sc around
23.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 10sc* around
24.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 9sc* around
25.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 8sc* around
26.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 7sc* around
27.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 6sc* around
28.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 5sc* around
29.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 4sc* around
You should go ahead and insert the safety eyes now between rows 5 and 6 and stuff her lightly. Marshmallows are fluffy remember!
30.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 3sc* around
31.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 2sc* around
32.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 1sc* around
33.  *1sc over the next 2sc* around
Cut your yarn, finish closing and weave in your yarn.

Now just sew on a smile and the buttons if you choose those instead of the safety eyes and you are done!

Mad Hooking!

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