Hanging Baby Feet

 

So, I was presented with a picture of a knitted pattern by Sandra Mceachran asking if I had anything similar.  I didn’t, but it was a little challenge and got the hamster in my head kicking a little… just a little mind you.  It was early and she hadn’t had enough caffeine.  After a few cups of coffee, I had a plan of action…

I went back and forth about toe down or sewing on the toes. Going by the picture I went with the toe down and less sewing because let’s face it, I’m all for less sewing on my crochet projects!
G hook (or whatever hook you prefer for your amigurumi projects and so the stuffing doesn’t show)
Yarn of choice (I happened to have pink Bernat worsted weight near me at the time)
Ribbon if wanted for hanging or yarn (I used a satin finish 15mm wide ribbon)
poly-fil
So, make two of these.  It is the same on the front as the back so flipping one makes the other foot…
Also, mine ended up being about 6.5 inches from big toe to heel.
Little Toes, 3 per foot:
6sc in magic circle
*inc, sc in next 2* around
sc for 2 rounds then bind off
Pinky Toe, 1 per foot:
6sc in magic circle
sc around for 2 rounds then bind off
Foot, starting with the big toe:
6sc in magic circle
*inc, sc* around
sc around
*inc, sc in next 2*
sc around
*dec, sc in next 2*
Ok, here’s where it can get tricky.  Just take one stitch at a time and it will be fine.
sc in next 3, then crochet together the second toe (draw up a loop in the current toe, draw up a loop in the new toe, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
sc in next 2, crochet together third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together fourth toe, sc in next 2, crochet together the pinky toe, sc in next 4 (around the pinky toe), crochet together to the fourth toe, sc in next 2,crochet together to the third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the second toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the big toe, sc in next 4 and you should be back to the beginning with a slightly curling weird thing that resembles toes.  It gets to looking better, trust me. Go ahead and stuff all the endings from the toes into the toes to get them out of your way.
Sc around for 2 rows (total of 31 stitches for those keeping count)
Inc in first stitch, sc around until the last 2 stitches.  Inc in the last 2
Sc around for 4 rounds
Sc in next 14 stitches, dec, sc in next 14, dec, dec
Sc around
Sc in next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next 12, dec, dec
*sc in next 5, dec* around
Sc around for 2 rounds then take a break and make sure those toes are stuffed the way you would like.
Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc around
 Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc around for 3 rounds
Sc in next 11 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc in next 10 stitches, dec, dec, sc in rest
*dec, sc in next 5* around
*dec, sc in next 4* around, stuff and shape as needed.  Don’t get carried away and stuff too firmly, you want it to be kinda flatish.
*dec, sc in next 3* around
*dec* around, leaving a long tail to sew close
That’s all… you can sew them together and then sew a ribbon on back for hanging or whatever you want to do with the feet!
Tip:  How I sewed my feet together I just made sure that the second foot I left a really long tail and sewed the end closed, placed the other foot next to it and went from there.  I then made the ribbon and used the same tail to sew that to the feet.  Less chance of things coming undone and certainly less threading of the needle.
Mad Hooking!

Shark Lapghan Pattern

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I cannot tell you how many requests I got for one of these. Of course I wasn’t going to revisit my problem from before of buying a pattern, especially when it is so close to my mermaid lapghan… So disclaimer, this was my first run on it and the pattern hasn’t been retested. I hope you like it.

This pattern is for an adult sized shark lapghan. That being said, check the measurements (approximately 41 inches wide by 41 inches long). It is also perfect for a young adult to be able to grow into.

As with all patterns, look ahead and see if this is what you want to do. My take on this one is a little different than some others.

A note on the Polyfil. I used it and the lapghan is still washable. However it can make the tail fin a bit heavier. How it is constructed it will hold its shape decently without it, but I wanted to show it stuffed… And it had been my original thought.

G and H size hooks
Grey yarn (I used Red Heart I Love this Yarn. It took roughly 4 skeins of grey.)
White yarn (small amount, just for the teeth)
Black yarn (really small amount, just for the eyes)
Polyfil (if desired)
Stitch markers if you like

To start, ch 152 (this gave me a width of 41″)

Row 1: dc in third chain and across, ch 2 (150 dc with ch 2 NOT counting as a stitch)

Row 2-64: dc in each st across (do not skip 1st st), ch 2 and turn (150 dc with a total length of 28″)

Row 65: dc in each st across but do not turn. Sl st in the first dc of the row, bringing both sides together, ch 2, do not turn.

We will now continue on in rounds. Note: this pattern has only been done once as of right now. Don’t stress about exactness of the decreases. If you need to add a dc or two at the end of the round, meh. It will work out fine. The lapghan will not implode. It will work out just fine.

Round 66-70: dc in same as join and in each dc around, sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 71: dc same as join, dc in next 7. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 8, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 72: dc same as join, dc in next 6. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 7, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 73: dc same as join and around.

Round 74: dc same as join, dc in next 5. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 6, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 75: dc same as join, dc in next 4. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 5, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 76: dc same as join and around.

Round 77: dc same as join, dc in next 3. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 4, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 78: dc same as join, dc in next 2. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 3, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 79-80: dc same as join and around.

Round 81: dc same as join, dc in next st. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 2, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 82-83: dc same as join and around.

Round 84: dc same as join, dc in next 2. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 3, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 85-86: dc same as join and around.

NOTE: At the end of round 86 you should have 36 stitches. What if you don’t? Either add (increase) how many you need or subtract (decrease) so you are at this number. You should be close if not dead on, so it will be fine. Truly, it will be. Don’t worry.

Switch to a size G hook. Use a stitch marker for the beginning of the rounds if needed.
Round 87: in BACK LOOPS ONLY, sc in same as join, sc in next 4. Sc2tog (sc decrease), *Sc in next 5, sc2tog* around. Do NOT sl st, we are going to spiral the rest of the way close.

IMG_20150811_204245

Round 88: working in both loops and starting in the first sc from the previous round, *sc in next 4, sc2tog*around.

Round 89: *sc in next 3, sc2tog*around.

Round 90: *sc in next 2, sc2tog*around.

Round 91: *sc in next 1, sc2tog*around.

Round 92: sc2tog around. Bind off, leave a long tail to sew close.

Join grey at the ‘v’ in the back of the lapghan, where you switched from rows to rounds and with your H hook, sc around the entire opening placing 3 sc in the top corners. Bind off and weave in your ends.

Teeth
White yarn
H hook

Attach yarn to top corner.

Row 1: *Sc, hdc, hdc, dc and tc in next, tc and dc in next, hdc, hdc, sc, sl st, sl st* across. Bind off, weave in ends.

Row 2: attach yarn to first sc and sc in each st until the tc. In first tc, sc, ch 1. sc until the sl st then sl st in those. Continue down the line and then bind off, weaving in the ends.

Now on to the fins. This is where I have made up about twenty different styles and decided on these. I wanted to be able to add some polyfil to keep the shape, but keep them washable. That made me decide on making them like amigurumi so bear with me on this one.

Tail fin
G hook
Grey yarn
Polyfil (if desired)
Stitch markers

Now I made these so that once you saw the stitch pattern repetition you could adjust as needed if you want. Adding rounds or doing less rounds… That sort of thing.

Attach your yarn to the front loops of round 87.

Round 1-5: sc around do NOT join at the end of every round. We will be working in a spiral. Use stitch markers if needed. Also, you should have 36 sc in each round. If not, just decrease or increase as needed.

Round 6: *2 sc in next, sc in next 6* around

Round 7: sc around

Round 8: *2 sc in next, sc in next 7* around

Round 9: sc around

Round 10: *2 sc in next, sc in next 8* around

Round 11: sc around

Round 12: *2 sc in next, sc in next 9* around

Round 13-15: sc around

Round 16: *2 sc in next, sc in next 10* around

Round 17-19: sc around

Round 18: *2 sc in next, sc in next 11* around

Round 19-21: sc around

Round 22: *2 sc in next, sc in next 12* around

Round 23-25: sc around

Round 26: *2 sc in next, sc in next 13* around

Round 27-29: sc around

Round 30: *2 sc in next, sc in next 14* around

Round 31-33: sc around

Round 34: *2 sc in next, sc in next 15* around

Round 35-37: sc around, bind off.

Now, fold your lapghan in half (bringing the edges of the V together) on the floor. Smooth out the tail fin so it is flat as well and mark the roughly half way spot. This is where you are going to attach your yarn through both thickness.

IMG_20150818_175153 IMG_20150818_180741

Round 38: sc in same as join and sc around until you get back to the stitch before the join. Now sc2tog the last stitch and the first stitch you made. Mark this stitch.

Round A 39-close: sc around until last stitch before join then sc3tog. Note the 3. It is the stitch before the tog stitch, tog stitch and the 1st sc of the next round. Also, when I say close it is to keep going in spirals until you only have 6 st left. Then you cut your yarn and sew the rest close. Stuff the fin if desired.

Round B 39-close: do the exact same as Round A. Continue to stuff if needed.

Dorsal (top) fin

G hook
Grey yarn
Polysilicon (if desired)
Stitch markers

Round 1: 6 sc in a magic circle

Round 2: sc around

Round 3: 2 sc in each st around

Round 5-6: sc around

Round 7: *2 sc in next st, sc next* around

Round 8-9: sc around

Round 10: *2 sc in next st, sc next 2* around

Round 11-13: sc around

Round 14: *2 sc in next st, sc next 3* around

Round 15-17: sc around

Round 18: *2 sc in next st, sc next 4* around

Round 19-21: sc around

Round 22: *2 sc in next st, sc next 5* around

Round 23-25: sc around

Round 26: *2 sc in next st, sc next 6* around

Round 27-30a: sc around

Round 31: hdc in next st, dc in next 2, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 3* around. Sl st to first hdc, bind off leaving a LONG tail for sewing. (Now don’t worry if this row doesn’t come out perfect. It is only to make it easier to attach the fin to the lapghan. Technically you don’t have to have it, but it makes life easier.)

Round 32: attach your yarn to the unworked (back loops) of round 31. *Sc in the next 6, sc2tog* around (note: I didn’t keep exact count because I forgot to honestly. Working nights does that to you. Don’t stress if the rounds don’t work up perfectly. It’s just to help keep the stuffing in.)

Round 33: *Sc in the next 5, sc2tog* around

Round 34: *Sc in the next 4, sc2tog* around

Round 35: *Sc in the next 3, sc2tog* around

Round 36: *Sc in the next 2, sc2tog* around

Round 37: *Sc in the next 2, sc2tog* around. Go ahead and stuff the fin if desired.

Round 38: *Sc in the next 1, sc2tog* around

Round 39: *Sc in the next 1, sc2tog* around

Round 40: *sc2tog* around. Bind off and sew close. Now I then placed about 5 stitches in the middle of the fin to make it angle back more. Not strictly necessary, but it made sense to me.

Sew the top fin in the middle top of blanket. Pin in place before sewing to make your life a little easier.

Eyes
Black yarn
H hook

Round 1: 12 dc in a magic circle, sl st to first dc, ch 2

Round 2: 2 dc in first dc and in every dc around, sl st to first, bind off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew eyes on either side of the top fin, about halfway from the top to the fin.

And that’s it!
Mad hooking!

Sweet Shells Baby Bonnet and Blanket Edging

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I have to admit, I love the edging I wrote for the Granny Square and Ribbon Blanket.  I use it so very often anymore as a go to for a statement, lacy edging on fleece blankets and it never fails to make the recipients of the blanket happy.  I recently used it on a baby blanket for my brother/sister-in-law coming soon little girl and I wanted a matching hat and shoes.  I couldn’t find what I wanted, so what follows is the pattern for the edging and the bonnet.  The shoes, if you want that pattern as well, can be found here (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/baby-bootie-slippers) for free even if I did my bow a little different…

As with all my patterns feel free to use and sell what you make if you want. I would ask that you link back to where you found the pattern when possible.  However do not reproduce my pattern in any format. Essentially, don’t be a troll.

Edging:

Size H hook.

The yarn I used in the picture was Red Heart with Love in Bubblegum.  To make the holes I use this nifty little tool I got from Kay’s Crochet (http://kayscrochetpatterns.com/) but I ordered mine off of their Amazon store because me and Amazon have a tight relationship like that…

Round 1: sc into the holes you made into your fleece.  Depending on how spaced apart your holes are you might do 2 sc in each hole like I do, just so you aren’t bunching up the fleece.

Round 2: sc around, placing 3 sc in the corner sc.  Don’t worry, this isn’t an exact science.  Truly don’t worry, just roughly where the corner is, throw in the 3 sc in one sc.

Round 3: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same st as joining. Skip 1 st, *dc in next, skip 2 st then (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next st, skip 2 st* around. Corners:  When you get to the corners though you will only be skipping 1 st instead of the 2.  Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st in the first two dc and into the space.  Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same space. *fpdc (front post double crochet) around the dc in middle of groups, (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space* around. Corners:  Nothing special to do in the corners for a change. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Round 5: Sl st in the first two dc and into the space like last round. Ch 3 and do 6 dc in same space. *fpdc around previous round fpdc, 7 dc in ch 1 space* around.  Corners:  Again, nothing special to do in the corners. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Bind off and weave in your ends and that’s it for the edging.

Bonnet:

Size H hook.

I used Red Heart with Love in White (I had this in my stash without the label so I’m not exactly sure of the name) and Bubblegum for this and according to my chart it should be for a 3 month old babe.  So, depending on your yarn it could change the size of your hat.  I have found this blog/sizing chart to be helpful (http://anniespictureperfect.blogspot.com/2013/01/how-to-properly-size-crochet-hats-chart.html?m=1)

With white, create a magic circle then ch 2

Round 1: 10 dc in the magic circle ,sl st to first then ch 2

Round 2: 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 3: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next* around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 4: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next 2* around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 5: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next 3* around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 6: dc in each of the next 45 st leaving the last 5 unworked, ch 3 and turn

Round 7: *dc in next, skip 2 st then (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next st, skip 2 st* across until the last 2 dc.  Dc in the last 2, ch 3 and turn

Round 8: fpdc (front post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, fpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn.

Round 9: bpdc (back post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, bpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn.

Round 10: fpdc (front post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, fpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn.

Round 11: bpdc (back post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, bpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3 changing to pink, ch 3 and turn.

Round 12: fpdc (front post double crochet) around the second dc, *7 dc in next ch 1 space, fpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3 do NOT cut yarn.

Round 13: ch 20, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back to the bonnet.  Sc evenly along the side and back until you get to the beginning of round 12.  Ch 20, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch back up to the bonnet.  Cut and weave in your yarn.

Mad Hooking!

Adult Sized Mermaid Lapghan

IMG_20150219_164934

IMG_20150219_165005 IMG_20150219_164902

As with a lot of things I make, this started with an idea from someone. They had an idea of what they wanted because they saw a picture… Of a paid pattern. Now, I typically stay away from paid patterns on general principal, but I had a weak moment. I bought the rather pricey pattern… I knew I shouldn’t, but I did.  It was absolutely dreadful!  It had good reviews and was written decently, but I found it just awful.  It was made of motifs that you connected as you went… OK, I can do that.  However when you did connect them it left gaping holes in the pattern and did not look like scales at all!  Just not for me… so here is what I came up with after I got rid of that hideous attempt.

Measurements:
Tail to top 42 inches
Tail to tip of fin 12 inches
Top width 38 inches

size H hook

worsted weight yarn: The best estimate I have on how much I used until I duplicate this more is a total of 1600 yds. Now the one pictured I used Bernat super value (426 yds per skein) in lilac and light damson. Then the variegated yarn was 2 skeins (since they come in 275 yd skeins)  in fresh lilac.  As always though everyone can use different amounts of yarn depending on how tight or loose you crochet. Please err on the side of having extra yarn.  As I have made more this is roughly accurate. Notice though I find I need extra yarn of the two solid colors (not just one skein of the super value) and so I can do a two stranded fin.

Edit: So I’ve been grabbing 2 skeins each of the solid color and 2 of the variegated yarn. I swear every time I make this I have different amount of yarn leftover… The last two I’ve made the fin out of the solid colors because the variegated almost ran out. The solid colors I am left with over a half of one and all over 3/4 of the other… Trying to get down the yardage for this has been tearing my hair out. The yarns are not exactly the same is my thought. 

Also,  for those who do better with videos another hooker made a version of the lapghan with an excellent video as well. The only thing I would add is the note on color changes (discussed in the next paragraph here) to make your life easier and not having to weave in all those ends.   http://yarnutopia.com/2015/04/29/how-to-crochet-video-tutorial-mermaid-tail-afghan-pattern-3-sizes-small-child-medium-teen-large-adult/

Also for those who need to resize the pattern, Rachel Z. Commented this: 

“Thanks for the great pattern. I just finished a child size one and I’ve seen a lot of request for the modifications… my top chain was 128 (includes 2 turning chains). If you work in multiples of 6 and add 2 for turning, it always works out. I did 42 5dc rows then joined it together. After joining, I did 15 5dc rows. When reducing to a 3dc pattern, I followed the remaining instructions until I had 14 st at the close. I made the same fin, which the top reduces to 7 st and it attaches to the tail perfectly. I hope this helps others wanting to make a child sized blanket :)”

Also for those with problems understanding the crochet language a fellow hooker named HAB posted this: “For instructions of terminology you don’t understand, use Google search engine to ask or go to a yarn website and search for abbreviations. At the very least buy a basic crochet book. sctog = single crochet two together.  http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/217.html

For Knit and Crochet abbreviationshttp://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/faq-search.cgi?store=/stores/eyarn&dictionaryOfAbbreviations=1

This free pattern is written by someone who is not a professional pattern writer. I applaud her efforts. To understand how she writes her pattern requires being very familiar with crochet terminology and patterns in general. Or locating instructions/terms unfamiliar to you in a crochet book or online crochet information source. Here is a great one:http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/crochet.html
To help you decipher her instructions I suggest you copy and paste into a word processor and then begin labeling rows and rounds. Make sure you understand *the stitch pattern* (the crocodile stitch) as noted in the first paragraph following the initial chains: *sc in first dc, sk 2 dc, 5 dc in next, sk 2 dc* (this makes what I will call 5dc (stitch) pattern for the rest of the (mermaid) pattern) My (stitch) pattern ended on a sc.  ch 2 and turn”

 

Note on the color changes.  I started changing color after the first 5dc pattern row and changed color after each row.  Being that I was using 3 different yarns that made things easier and less ends to weave in because I never bound off at the end of the row.  I simply dropped one color, picked up the next and went.  Now, I did NOT carry behind the work.  I truly just let it stay there.  Believe it or not, it works and doesn’t mess up the color pattern you are doing. After you have all three colors joined in you will see that when you end a row you just pick up the strand you had left before.  Sounds so much more difficult than it really is, but so much a time saver not having to weave in all those ends.

Also note.  Your work might not be the exact same counts as mine.  That’s cool.  It might end on a sc where I had 3dc.  That’s cool.  It is really just that 5 dc shell pattern you want for the scales.  If your row ends on a sc, ch 2 turn, 2dc in first then go with the pattern.  If your row ends on a dc group, sc in last st, ch 1 turn and sc in first the go with the pattern.  It is really simple once you get used to it.

To start, ch 153 (this gave me the width I was looking for, so if you are altering for a different size start with a chain that works for your project)

dc in third chain and across, chain 1

*sc in first dc, sk 2 dc, 5 dc in next, sk 2 dc* (this makes what I will call 5dc pattern for the rest of the pattern) My pattern ended on a sc.  ch 2 and turn

2dc in first st (that last sc), sk 2 st, sc in the 3rd dc of the 5 dc shell, sk 2 st, then follow the 5dc pattern until last sc where you only do 3dc, ch 1 and turn

sc in first st, sk 2 st, then follow the 5dc pattern until the end where you sc in that last st/dc.  ch 2 and turn

Now you just do those last two rows for 72 5dc pattern rows.  This made the lapghan go down to about the calf length (in case you are re-sizing the pattern).

Now we are going to start going in rounds instead of rows.  How you might ask?  Very carefully… Make sure when you pull the ends together the right side of the first row of dc is facing out.  Or not, either way would be fine I imagine honestly.  Just keep the strands of the none working yarn to the back/inside of the tail and change colors where it looks best to you.

What follows is how I brought the two sides together so I could work more of a spiral because that made things easier on me and doesn’t leave a seam.  Truly, you could just do what makes sense to you as you look at the work in your hands.  As long as you are still doing the 5dc pattern, it will all be good.  Just relax and have a drink and go with it.

Sl st to the 1st dc of the row, ch 1, sc in joining, then proceed on with 5 dc pattern.

Sl st to 1st sc, changing colors, ch 2 and 4dc in same as join. 5 dc pattern to last sc. Now sc tog last sc to the 2nd dc from the beginning, make sure to change color.

Ch 1, sc in same as join then go on with the 5 dc pattern.

From here you should be able to just go in a spiral, changing colors as you get back to the start of the spiral.  I did a total of 20 rounds counting from the beginning of the original join.  This took the me down to about covering the foot when the foot is pointed.

Now you get to start bringing it in to a close.  So that means you are almost done!

Keep doing the pattern and color changing around, but instead of the 5dc, do only 3dc, still skipping 2 stitches.  On the 2nd, 3rd and 4th round only sk 1 st in-between the dc and the sc.  Do this for a total of  4 3dc pattern rounds.

Then you are going to 3dc, sc tog (tog is also known as a decrease) where the next 2 sc would go (in the 2nd dc of the 3 dc group).  Do your 3dc pattern until every 3rd sc spot,  then sc tog.

Next round, change colors in the first sc spot, 3dc then sc tog (in the 2nd dc of the 3 dc group). Do your 3dc patten until every 3rd sc spot, then sc tog. 

This next round 3dc, sc tog over the next 2 sc spot. Do your 3rd dc patten until every 3rd sc spot, then sc tog.

This should leave it almost closed up and you tired of turning your work around and around.  So go ahead and change colors in the first sc, then sc tog where every sc spot should be for 2 rounds.

Bind off, and leave a tail so you can go ahead and sew the tail closed.

Join your yarn on the outside of the opening where you joined the rounds and sc around the opening.  Placing 3 sc in the corners.  Bind off and weave in the end.

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Feels great to be done with that part doesn’t it?  Now on to the much easier to do fin.  Again, I sized it for the lapghan I was working on.

Fin

I did the fin in the variegated yarn. If you want a thicker fin, use two strands held together.  The fin shape will have a straight side with the opposite side decreasing in, then increasing back out. The straight side will be the top where you do your sc tog to then sew it on the tail.

Ch 43

dc in 4th chain and dc across, ch 2 and turn

*dc tog, dc in rest of stitches, ch 2 and turn

dc across, dc tog in last two dc, ch 2 and turn*

repeat this pattern for a total of 5 times

now do 2 dc tog, dc in rest of stitches, ch 2 and turn

dc across and do 2 dc tog in last 4 st, ch 2 and turn

2 dc in each of the next 2 st, dc across, ch 2 and turn

dc across, put 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc, ch 2 and turn

*2 dc in first dc, dc across, ch 2 and turn

dc across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 and turn*

repeat this pattern for a total of 5 times

dc across, ch 1 and turn

sc around, making sure to put 3 sc in the corners except the last corner you come to.  Ch 1 and turn so that now you are working on the top of the fin (where you just have a bunch of dc, not the dc tog or 2dc)

sc tog across, ch 1

sc tog across, ch 1

*sc tog, sc* ch 1

*sc tog, sc * ch 1

bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Now you are going to sew this where the bottom of your fin is… where you sewed it close.  It is worth noting that I sewed the sides of the sc rows to the tail as well as the sc.  I thought it looked better and helped hold the fin out.

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There you have it… a cozy mermaid tail!

Mad Hooking!

Animal balls: Panda

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I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5.  Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!

Panda Ball

Size G hook
9mm safety eyes or small buttons
Some black and white yarn

Eyes
6 sc in magic circle, but don’t close tightly if you are using the safety eyes
2 sc in next, 2 hdc in next, sc and sl st in next.
bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The safety eye will slide through the magic circle then through the ball (when we get to putting the eyes on) and then you can sew the black spot you just made in place.

Ball
6 sc in magic circle
*inc (2sc in next sc)* around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
*inc, 1sc in next 2* around
*inc, 1sc in next 3* around
*inc, 1sc in next 4* around
Sc around for 2 rows then switch to black. Sc around for 5 rows then switch back to white for 2 more rows.
*dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around
*dec, 1sc in next 3* around
*dec, 1sc in next 2* around
Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late. It is easier to wait until after you have finished it off the ball to sew the eye patch in place.
*dec, 1sc in next 1* around
Dec around, bind off and sew close.

Tail
6 sc in magic circle
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around. Bind off and sew on.

Ears
6 sc in magic circle
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around for two rows. Bind off, flatten and sew on.

Now just sew on a cute nose and mouth and you are done.

Mad Hooking!

Animal balls: Zebra

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I always like to have a bin of small, easy to make toys for when I do craft shows. Kids love it and parents love it as well. This way they can get something new and it is less than $5.  Keeps the kids happy and not screaming as they walk away. That makes me happy. So I decided to write up my animal balls that seem to be a hit. Kids like balls and animals… so get those kids some animal balls!

Zebra Ball

Size G hook
9mm safety eyes or small buttons
Some black and white yarn

Ball
Note, I switched yarn every other round, just in a different random place every time.  Switch more or less is up to you and makes every zebra different. Or not at all and have a horse ball!

Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
*inc (2sc in next sc)* around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
*inc, 1sc in next 2* around
*inc, 1sc in next 3* around
*inc, 1sc in next 4* around
Sc around for 9 rows
*dec (sc over next 2 sc),1sc in next 4* around
*dec, 1sc in next 3* around
*dec, 1sc in next 2* around
Make sure to place eyes and stuff before it is too late.
*dec, 1sc in next 1* around
Dec around, bind off and sew close.

Muzzle
Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
*inc* around
Sc around for 2 rows, bind off, stuff and sew on. Sew two nostrils on as well.

Ears
Starting with white, 6 sc in magic circle
Sc around
*inc, 1sc in next* around
Sc around for 2 rows, bind off and flatten then sew on.

Hair
cut some black and white yarn roughly about 5 inches in length. Attach to the ball using latch hook method, making sure white yarn on white stripe and black yarn on black stripe. When done, trim as needed.

Mad Hooking!

Granny Square and Ribbon Baby Blanket Set

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So this one started out as my sister finding this picture of a lovely blanket and wanted me to duplicate it for a gift. It isn’t my original idea and I couldn’t find the pattern listed in my usual hunting grounds, so of course this hooker made up one!

A warning. This isn’t an exact pattern. Depending on the size of your granny square will change the count for the edging and really that is all this blanket is… a traditional granny square with a fancy edging. The hat is a bit more exact.  The hat fits a 0-3 month baby.

Red Heart with Love yarn (I used gray and bubblegum pink)
H size hook
Ribbon (I used 5/8″ or 15mm wide and it took just under 18ft or 5.4m)
Accent pearl or button (or nothing)

Alright, start by making your granny square with the gray. You can find a tutorial just about everywhere, but here is one in case you need it and are feeling lazy (like me usually) and don’t want to search… just note as a personal choice I start my squares with a chain 6 and a decent size tail. This way it is easier to start then by pulling the tail and weaving it in it closes up and takes away the starting bump.

http://stephiescorner.blogspot.com/2013/10/crochet-101-make-basic-granny-square.html

I did 34 rounds so that the blanket would be roughly 3ft wide with the edging. How big you make the square is up to you… just make sure you have enough ribbon.

Edging:

Now, I have written down what to do. That being said you might have to add a stitch or skip an extra stitch to make it work with your granny square. Keep calm, have a glass of wine or beer, and know it will be fine.  It doesn’t need to be exact as the edging is very forgiving and will look great no matter what.  Nobody wants a grumpy hooker.

Don’t bind off yarn, just continue on with the gray.  Ch 1, sc in same st as joining then sc in every st.  Put 3 sc in the corner space. Sl st into first sc.

Ch 5, *skip 1 st then tc (triple crochet) in next st, ch 1* around. Corners:  In the 2nd sc of the 3sc corner do *tc, ch 1, tc, ch 1, tc, ch 1* then skip a st and continue down the row. This is the round where you will weave in your ribbon later.

Ch 1, sc in same st as joining then sc in every tc and in each ch 1 space.  Corners:  Put 3 sc in the corner tc (the second tc in the corner grouping). Sl st into first sc and cut and bind your yarn.

Now using pink join in the second st of any of the previous round corner grouping. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same st as joining. Skip 1 st, *dc in next, skip 2 st then (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next st, skip 2 st* around. Corners:  When you get to the corners though you will only be skipping 1 st instead of the 2.  Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Sl st in the first two dc and into the space (just like you did for the granny square).  Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same space. *fpdc (front post double crochet) around the dc in middle of groups, (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next space* around. Corners:  Nothing special to do in the corners for a change. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Sl st in the first two dc and into the space like last round. Ch 3 and do 8 dc in same space. *fpdc around previous round fpdc, 9 dc in ch 1 space* around.  Cornets:  Again, nothing special to do in the corners. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Bind off and weave in your ends.

Now weave in your ribbon doing the over/under in the triple crochet row. Keep the kids away because there will most likely be some choice words here trying to keep the ribbon from twisting.  Also be sure to pull your square into flatness before you cut the ribbon. It will pull the work together a little, but you don’t want to end up with a bunched up blanket and having to reweave the ribbon. Tie your ribbon, making sure it will be where the flower goes to cover it up.  I also got out my sewing needle and thread to add some stitches in all the corners to keep it from twisting and pulling weird.  This will also secure it a bit for future washings.

For the flower I used this pattern: http://www.sccmag.com/crochet-a-sweet-simple-flower-clip-for-spring/

The top part I did with the pink, bottom with gray then I sewed on a pearl bead in the middle.

Now for the 0-3 month old baby hat! And you thought you were done… silly hooker…

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In pink, ch 2 then 12 dc in first chain. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in joining. *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* around. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, 2 dc in joining. *1 dc in next 2st, 2 dc in next st* around. Sl st to top of first dc.

Ch 2, dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc. Repeat for 4 rows.

Switch to gray. Ch 2, dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc. Repeat for 2 rows.

Switch back to pink. Ch 2, dc in joining and each st around. Sl st to top of first dc. Only for 1 row.

Ch 1, sc in joining. *skip 1 st, 5 dc in next, skip 1 st, sc in next* around. Sl st in first sc and bind off, weaving in ends.

Sew on matching flower as blanket and now you are done! Woot, Woot!

Mad Hooking!

Baby Marshmallow

IMG_2585So I took the kids to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2 and spent the whole movie thinking about what I could turn into crochet… yeah, the life of a Mad Hooker…

My first to make is the Marshmallows since they were the cutest and the first I thought of when I got home.

Baby Marshmallow – Around 2.5 inches tall

Yarn: I just used some miscellaneous white I had and a small amount of black
Hook: size “G”
Other: either 12mm black safety eyes or some black buttons

6 sc in a magic circle, do not join. She is worked in a round
1.  2sc in each st
2.  *2sc in 1 st, 1sc in next st* around
3.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 st* around
4.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st* around
5.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 4 st* around
6.  *2sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next 5 st* around
7-17. Sc around
18.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 5sc* around
19.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 4sc* around
You should go ahead and insert the safety eyes now between rows 3 and 4 and stuff her lightly. Marshmallows are fluffy remember!
20.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 3sc* around
21.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 2sc* around
22.  *1sc over the next 2sc, 1sc in next 1sc* around
23.  *1sc over the next 2sc* around
Cut your yarn, finish closing and weave in your yarn.

Now just sew on a smile and the buttons if you choose those instead of the safety eyes and you are done!

Mad Hooking!

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