crochet

Elegant Angel Topper

I was asked to recreate a loved angel topper… I did, but of course I couldn’t help but make another one that was better. The original was only about 7 inches tall and of course it’s go big right?! This wonderful angel comes in at 9 inches tall! So here’s my take on the angel Christmas tree topper.. Though it would look just as lovely as a centerpiece. I hope you enjoy!

size 10 cotton thread
1.50mm crochet hook
small amount of poly-fil
stiffening solution (I used 1 part Elmer’s glue to 2 parts water)
rust proof pins
pinning board
foam cones and cover with saran wrap to make it easier to remove the angels

Head is worked without joining in each round. Use a stitch marker if you prefer to mark the beginning of each round.

10 sc in magic circle
Inc in each around
*inc, sc in next* around
*inc, sc in next 9* around (33 sc)
sc around for 6 rounds
sc, *dec, sc in next 2* around (make sure to stuff head firmly)
sc *dec x12* this time go ahead and join with a sl s to beginning sc but do NOT bind off and continue on to the body (13 sc)

Body
Round 1: Ch 4, dc in same space *(dc, ch 1, dc)* in each st around, join with st st to 3rd ch of beginning ch
Round 2: Ch 4, dc in same space *(dc, ch 1, dc)* in the next 8 dc. *(tr, ch 1, tr)* in next 4 dc. *(dc, ch 1, dc)* in the next 9 dc. *(tr, ch 1, tr)* in next 4 dc, join with st st to 3rd ch of beginning ch
Round 3: Sl st to ch between original ch and dc. Ch 4, dc in same space *(dc, ch 1, dc)* in next 8 ch 1 space. *(tr, ch 1, tr)* in next 4 ch 1 space. *(dc, ch 1, dc)* in next 9 ch 1 space. *(tr, ch 1, tr)* in next 4 ch 1 space. join with st st to 3rd ch of beginning ch.

Wing 1
Round 1: Sl st to ch between original ch and dc. Ch 4, (tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in same space. *(2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr)* in next 8 ch 1 space. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch, leaving the rest unworked for now.
Round 2: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 4, 2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr in same space. *(3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) around. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch.
Round 3: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 4, 2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr in same space. *(3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) around. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch.
Round 4: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 4, 3 tr, ch 3, 4 tr in same space. *(4 tr, ch 3, 4 tr) around. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch.
Round 5: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 3, 4 tr, ch 3 picot, 4 tr in same space, dc, ch 1, sc in the space between tc clusters. *(dc, 4 tr, ch 3 picot, 4 tr, dc) in ch 2 space. Ch 1, sc inbetween tc clusters, ch 1* around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3 of original ch. Bind off and weave in end.

Wing 2
Skip 4 of the (tr, ch 1, tr) and join thread with sl st in the next space between the next (dc, ch 1, dc).
Round 1: Ch 4, tr, ch 2, 2 tr in same space. *(2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr)* in next 8 ch 1 space. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch, leaving the rest unworked for now.
Round 2: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 4, 2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr in same space. *(3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) around. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch.
Round 3: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 4, 2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr in same space. *(3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) around. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch.
Round 4: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 4, 3 tr, ch 3, 4 tr in same space. *(4 tr, ch 3, 4 tr) around. Join with sl st to top of ch 4 of original ch.
Round 5: Sl st to chs between tc clusters. Ch 3, 4 tr, ch 3 picot, 4 tr in same space, dc, ch 1, sc in the space between tc clusters. *(dc, 4 tr, ch 3 picot, 4 tr, dc) in ch 2 space. Ch 1, sc inbetween tc clusters, ch 1* around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3 of original ch. Bind off and weave in end.

Skirt
Round 1: Join thread with sl st in the first ch 1 space of the back (tr, ch 1, tr). Ch 5, tr in same space. *(tr, ch 1, tr)* in the next 3 ch 1 spaces, in the joining of the wing base, in the next 4 and in the next joining of the wing base. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 5.

Round 2: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 5, tr in same space. *ch 1, 5 tr in the next ch 1 space, ch 1, (tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 1 space* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 5.
Round 3: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 6, tr in same space. Ch 1, (tr, ch 2, tr) in 3rd tr of next cluster, ch 1, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 1 space, (tr, ch 2, tr) in 3rd tr of next cluster* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6.
Round 4: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 6, tr in same space. Ch 2, 5 tr in next ch 2 space, ch 2, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 2 space, ch 2, 5 tr in next ch 2 space, ch 2* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6.
Round 5: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 5, (tr, ch 1, tr) in same space. Ch 1, (tr, ch 3, tr) in 3rd tr of next cluster, ch 1. *(tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 1 space, ch 1, (tr, ch 3, tr) in 3rd tr of next cluster, ch1* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 5.
Round 6: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 7, tr in same space. (tr, ch 3, tr) in next ch 1 cluster *ch 2, 5tr in next ch 3 space, ch 2, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next 2 ch 1 spaces* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 7.
Round 7: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 5, tr in same space, (tr, ch 1, tr) in space in-between previous round, (tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 3 space, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr) in in 3rd tr of next cluster, ch 2, *(tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 3 space, (tr, ch 1, tr) in space in-between previous round , (tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 3 space, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 3 space, ch 2* around. (tr, ch 1, tr) in last ch 3 space. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 5.

Round 8: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 5, tr in same space. *3 tr in next ch 1 space, (tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 1 space, ch 2, 5 tr in next ch 1 space, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 1 space* around. 5 tr in last ch 1 space. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 5.
Round 9: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 6, tr in same space. *(tr, ch 2, tr) in 2nd ch of previous 3 tr cluster, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 1 space, ch 2, (tr, ch 2, tr) in 3rd tr of next tr cluster, ch 2, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 1 space* around. Ch 2, (tr, ch 2, tr) in 3rd tr of next tr cluster, ch 2. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6.
Round 10: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 5, tr in same space. 5 tr in next ch 2 space. *(tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 2 space, 5 tr in next ch 2 space* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 5.
Round 11: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 6, tr in same space. Ch 1, (tr, ch 2, tr) in 3rd tr of next cluster, ch 1, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 1 space, (tr, ch 2, tr) in 3rd tr of next cluster* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6.
Round 12: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 5, tr in same space. *ch 1, 5 tr in the next ch 1 space, ch 1, (tr, ch 1, tr) in next ch 1 space* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 5.
Round 13: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 7, tr in same space. (tr, ch 3, tr) in each (tr, ch 1, tr) and each 3rd st of the 5tr clusters around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 7.
Round 14: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 6, tr in same space. Ch 2, 5 tr in next ch 2 space, ch 2, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 2 space, ch 2, 5 tr in next ch 2 space, ch 2* around. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6.
Round 15: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. Ch 6, tr in same space. Ch 2, *(3 tr, ch 3, 3tr) in 3rd ch of next 5 tr cluster, ch 2, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 2 space, ch 2* around. (3tr, ch 3, 3tr) in last 3rd ch of next 5 tr cluster. Sl st to the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6.
Round 16: Sl st to ch between tc clusters. ch 1, 2 dc, sc in same space. *2 sc over next ch 2 space, ch 1, (dc, 4tr, ch 3 picot, 4tr, dc) in next ch 3 space, ch 1, 2 sc over next ch 2 space, (sc, 2 dc, sc) in next (tr, ch 2, tr)* around. Finish with 2 sc over next ch 2 space, ch 1, (dc, 4tr, ch 3 picot, 4tr, dc) in next ch 3 space, ch 1, 2 sc over last ch 2 space. Sl st to the the beginning ch 1. Bind off and weave in end.

Halo
Ch 25, join with sl st to beg ch.
Ch 1, *2 sc, 2 hdc, ch 3 picot, 2 hdc, 2 sc* 5 times in the ring, join with sl st in beginning sc. Bind off and sew onto the back of the head. (Now, without fail I always have to adjust the stitches around on the ring to space out the way I want it to look.)

Now, the not so fun part. Make your stiffening solution (I used 1 part glue to 3 parts water) and pin the head and wings into place. I used one pin stabbed through and then let the top part slide up the pin. The halo I put into place held together with pins on both sides. Let dry for 24 hours. Then dip the skirt, pin and let dry for 24 hours. I was able to find a styrofoam cone to fit inside the skirt to do this part. I did wrap the cone with plastic wrap to keep it from glueing accidently to the cone.

Scarecrow

So I wanted to make a Wizard of Oz set for yet another Norbert pattern. I found this wonderful pattern for Tin Man (which take some time to look at her other lovely patterns! I have loved her work and never had a problem with any of the patterns.), but there wasn’t one for the Scarecrow or Lion. So I based Scarecrow off of her pattern to make the set.  Other links: Tin Man, Cowardly Lion, Dorothy, Wicked Witch, and Flying Monkey

Worsted weight yarn in colors desired, G Hook and 9mm safety eyes

Head and Body, start with light tan for head
1. 6 sc in magic circle
2. 2sc around
3. *inc, sc in next sc* around
4. *inc, sc in next 2sc* around
5. *inc, sc in next 3sc* around
6-12. sc around
Place safety eyes between rounds 8-9
13. *dec, sc in next 3* around
14. *dec, sc in next 2* around
15. *dec, sc in next sc* around, make sure to stuff head and continue to stuff as you go
16. *inc, sc in next sc* around in BLO then switch to green for shirt
17. *inc, sc in next 2sc* around
18-23. sc around
24. sc in BLO around then switch to reddish brown for pants
Stuff body
25. *dec, sc in next 2* around
26. *dec, sc in next sc* around
27. *dec around*, bind off and close up hole

Neck ruffle
Ok admittedly this is not in the best place so it is a bit challenging. Just take it slow and don’t get frustrated. I found it best to almost push the head and body away from each other to push the FLO out more. Make sure the head is facing down.
attach head tan yarn in any of the round 16 FLO that are exposed.
1. Ch 1, *inc* around, do NOT sl st to the first, but continue on in a spiral
2. *inc, sc in next* around
3. *inc, sc in next 2* around, bind off and weave in end

Shirt ruffle
Attach shirt green color in any of the round 24 FLO that are exposed, making sure the head in facing down.
1. ch 1, sc around, do NOT sl st to the first, but continue on in a spiral
2-4. sc around, bind off and weave in end

Legs, make sure to stuff as you go, start with medium brown for the shoes
1. 6 sc in magic circle
2. 3sc in first st, sc in next 3sc, 3sc in next sc, sc in next sc
3. 2hdc in next 4sc then sc in next 6sc
4. hdc in next 8hdc then sc in next 2sc, dec, sc in next 2sc
5. *dec, sc in next* x3, sc in next 4sc
6. sc in next 3sc, dec, sc in next, dec, sc in next 2sc and switch to pants color
7-14. sc around
15. sc in next 2, inc x2, sc in next 2, inc x2 (This round is optional as it should just be some inc in the front and back of the leg, but it does make sewing the legs on easier.) Bind off and sew onto body. It helps to flip up the shirt ruffle until the legs are sewn on then flip back down.

Arms, make sure to stuff hand, but lightly stuff arm, starting with light tan
1. 6 sc in magic circle
2. *inc, sc in next sc* around
3-4. sc around
5. dec x2, sc in next 5sc, switch to green shirt color
6-12. sc around. Bind off and sew onto body.

Hat
1. 6 sc in magic circle
2. sc around
3. *hdc inc, hdc in next 2* around
4. *hdc inc, hdc in next 3* around
5. *hdc inc, hdc in next 4* around
6. *hdc inc, hdc in next 3* around
7. *hdc inc, hdc in next 4* around
8. *hdc inc, hdc in next 2* around
9. *hdc inc, hdc in next 3* around
10. *hdc inc, hdc in next 4* around
11. *hdc inc, hdc in next 11* around
12. FLO sc around
13. *hdc inc* around
14. hdc around, bind off and leave a tail for sewing. Weave end up to round 11 and then sew this round loosely to the head.

Ties
Using brown yarn tie a length of yarn around the neck above the ruffle leaving the ends hanging. Tie another around the waist above the shirt ruffle.

Straw
Using straw colored yarn attach in various places like you would hair. I used 3-4″ yarn then just trimmed as necessary. You actually need small pieces, but those are really hard to weave in to me. I then split the yarn into strands with a needle to fluff it up a little.

Mad Hooking!

Sour Patch Kid Ragdoll

I have to say, I so enjoy these little challenges I get to see if I can create something and the pattern for it!  Please, keep them coming! This one works up pretty quickly and both my kids and their friends instantly knew what it was! I was kinda worried for a moment there because my husband didn’t, but then again he doesn’t care for sweets…

G Hook

164 yds worsted weight yarn (I had a new skein of Caron Simply Soft Party yarn on hand that has some glitter aspect to it and used that since that made me think of the sugar on the candies. I used almost all of it with just a little scrap ball left over)

Body Panel, make 2

Row 1: ch 6, sc in 2nd chain from hook and across, ch 1 and turn (5 sts)

Row 2: inc, sc3, inc, ch 1 and turn (7 sts)

Row 3-9: sc across, ch 1 and turn (7 sts)

Row 10: inc, sc 5, inc (9 sts)

Row 11: sc across (9 sts)

Tie off.

Repeat the rows 1-11 but do not tie off, ch 1 and turn

Row 12: inc, sc 8 across of 1st leg, now continue on the 2nd leg and make sc 8 , inc in last st, ch 1 and turn (20 sts)

Row 13-25: sc across, ch 1 and turn (20 sts)

Row 26: dec, sc 16, dec , ch 1 and turn (18 sts)

Row 27: sc across , ch 1 and turn (18 sts)

Row 28: dec, sc 14, dec , ch 1 and turn (16 sts)

Row 29: dec, sc 12, dec , ch 1 and turn (14 sts)

Row 30: dec, sc 10, dec , ch 1 and turn (12 sts)

Row 31: sc across , ch 1 and turn (12 sts)

Now we will start the head..

Row 32: Ch 2, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 12 along prev row , ch 2 and turn (14 sts)

Row 33: inc in 2nd ch from hook, inc, sc 10, inc, inc in last st , ch 1 and turn (18 sts)

Row 34: inc, inc, sc 14, inc, inc , ch 1 and turn (22 sts)

Row 35: inc, sc 20, inc, ch 1 and turn (24 sts)

Row 36-46: sc across , ch 1 and turn (24 sts)

Row 47: dec, sc 20, dec , ch 1 and turn (22 sts)

Row 48-49: sc across , ch 1 and turn (22 sts)

Row 50: dec, sc 18, dec , ch 1 and turn (20 sts)

Row 51: sc across , ch 1 and turn (20 sts)

Row 52: dec, sc 16, dec , ch 1 and turn (18 sts)

Row 53: inc, sc 16, inc , ch 1 and turn (20 sts)

Row 54: inc, sc 18, inc , ch 1 and turn (22 sts)

Row 55-56: sc, *sc in next 2, hdc, sc in next 2* 4 times, sc, ch 1 and turn (22 sts)

Row 57: sc, *sc, hdc, 2 hdc, hdc, sc* 4 times, sc, ch 1 and turn (26 sts)

Row 58: sc, *sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc* 4 times, sc then bind off.

Hands : ( make 2 in sets )

Row 1: ch 6, sc in 2nd chain from hook and across, ch 1 and turn (5 sts)

Row 2: inc, sc 3, inc, ch 1 and turn (7 sts)

Row 3-15: sc across, ch 1 and bind off for the first panel only, second panel continue (7 sts)

Do NOT bind off second panel.

Simple (and what I did for the left arm): Pair up with first and sc around through both, placing 2 sc in the corners, making sure to stuff before closing up and leave a tail for sewing. Make sure to keep row 1 lined up since this is the “finger” side.

Optional (for the right arm): I wanted mine to have a wave going and not just flat. Now, above works and you can have a bit of movement due to the stuffing, but I wanted a more pronounced bend in the arm. This is what I did, making sure to keep the row 1 lined up. Pair up the second panel with the first and make sure to crochet down the long side. Place sc then dec until the corner of the “finger”. Place 2 sc in corner, sc down the short finger end, 2 sc in the corner. Now down this long side inc the whole way to the corner, making sure to stuff as you go. Place 2 sc in corner, sc down the short finger end, sl st to the first then bind off leaving a tail for sewing. Now I did help this along a little bit to accentuate the curve with the stuffing.

Attach your yarn with a sc at the top side of its head and crochet through both thickness going down, but stop before you get to the spot where the arm goes. Sew the arm into place going through panel, arm, panel then bind off. Continue to crochet, but only crochet through the first panel across the arm. Continue around the body, making sure to stuff as you go. Make sure to put 2 sc in the corners of the feet and alson 2 sc in the head’s dcs. When you get to the next arm stop duplicate what you did for the other. When you get back to the start, sl st and bind off, weaving in your end.

Eyes (make 2)

Rnd 1: ch 15, sc in first ch and around (15 sts)

Rnd 2-3: sc around, at the end of round 3 sl st in next then bind off, leave a long chain for sewing (15 sts)
Whip stitch round one and three together then sew onto head whip stitch side down.

 

Mouth

Row 1: ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (12 sts)

Row 2-3: sc across, at the end of round 3, bind off, leave a long chain for sewing (12 sts)
Whip stitch round one and three together then sew onto head whip stitch side down.

Now you can pose him however you like!

Mad Hooking

Hermione Granger

Of course I needed to make Hermoine to complete the trio! She is essentially the same as Harry and Ron except her longer hair and skirt…

Harry and Ron can be found here: https://www.madhooker.com/harry-potter-and-ron-weasley/

Worsted weight yarn (or any weight of your choosing)
Size G hook (or whatever hook to make a tight crochet with your yarn)
Safety eyes, 9mm
Poly-fil for stuffing

Legs(make two) start with black
8 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
dec x4, sc x8
dec x2, sc x8 (by this round it should be 10sc) Stuff foot and continue to stuff as you go and then change to gray
sc around for 10 rounds. Bind off, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Now about joining the legs, what you need to do is hold the legs together and sl st through both the legs twice in the middle where they meet, from the front of the legs to the back. Then continue around the legs. You should end with 2 sl st and 16 sc (8 sc around each leg). Moving on to the body you will forgo the sl st and only work in the sc.

Body continuing with gray
sc around for 3 rounds
*dec, 3* x3, sc, make sure to continue to stuff as you go and switch to white
sc around in back loop only just for this round
sc around for 7 rounds
sc, dec, dec, 2 sec, dec, dec
dec around, Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Skirt in black
Attach yarn in the front loops of the back loop only row with the legs facing up
sc around and do not sl st to join, just keep going to start a spiral
sc around for 3 rounds
*inc, sc* around
sc around for 6 rounds, bind off and weave in end

Arms (make two) start with skin color
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
*dec, sc in next 2* around, make sure to stuff lightly as you go and switch to white
sc around for 10 rounds. Bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew onto the sides of the body.

Head
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
*inc, sc* around
*inc, sc in next 2* around
sc around for 6 rounds, insert safety eyes between rounds 5 and 6 (not counting the magic circle as a round), leaving about 3 sc in between.
*dec, sc in next 2* around
*dec, sc* around, be sure to stuff
dec around, bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew on

Tie
So, I played around with quite a few ideas to make this happen… more than I would like to admit for a tie. Now if you would like another way than what I am about to describe, then in one color just ch 21, sc across then use the other color to sew in the stripes. If you want another way, here’s what I did.
Essentially you are going to be doing a foundation sc row. On every third sc, change to the next color. Make sure you crochet over the end and carry the unused yarn by crocheting over it. Make 30 foundation sc then just bind off and weave in the ends. Tie it around the neck flipping both ends down. The vest will hold the tie down.

Vest in gray
ch 18 (make sure this goes around the doll’s waist)
sl st to first sc, making sure not to twist, ch 2 (does not count as a st) dc around, sl st to the beginning
ch 2, dc around for 3 rounds, for a total of 4 rounds
ch 11, turn and hdc in the 2nd ch and across (10 hdc) then sc in the first dc. Sc in next 3 dc. ch 11, turn and hdc in the 2nd ch and across (10hdc) then sc in next unused dc. Bind off and leave a long end. Slide vest onto the body then sew the vest straps to the vest. Make sure to position the tie inside the vest how you want it to look.

Cloak in black
ch 21, turn and sc in each ch, ch 1 and turn
*inc, sc* across, ch 1 and turn
*inc, sc in next 2, ch 1 and turn
sc in next 3, ch 6 and skip 12 sc, sc in next 10, ch 6 and skip 12 sc, sc in next 3, ch 1 and turn
sc across in all sc and ch, ch 2 (does not count as stitch) and turn
*dc inc, dc in next 3* dc in last, ch 2 and turn
dc across for 8 rows
ch 1 and sc around the opening and bottom of the cloak, sl st to the first and weave in end
Cloak sleeves, repeat on each arm
Join the yarn in one of the corners of the sleeve opening. Ch 1 and sc around the opening, sl st to beginning, ch 2 (does not count as stitch)
Dc around, sl st to beginning and ch 2. Repeat for a total of 4 rounds. Ch 1 and then sc around, sl st to beginning, bind off and weave in the ends.

Hair in brown
I cut about 12″ strands and hooked them onto the head. Then I split the strands apart with the help of a needle to help give that busy effect.

Mad Hooking!

Harry Potter and Ron Weasley

My next picture with my lovely model Norbert I choose to do how she got her name. Of course I couldn’t find suitable patterns, so here I go making my own. For Harry and Ron the only differences are the fine touches really. Harry gets black hair, glasses and the lightning bolt scar. Ron gets red hair. That’s about it.

Hermione can be found here: https://www.madhooker.com/hermione-granger/

Worsted weight yarn (or any weight of your choosing)
Size G hook (or whatever hook to make a tight crochet with your yarn)
Safety eyes, 9mm
Poly-fil for stuffing

Legs(make two) start with black
8 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
dec x4, sc x8
dec x2, sc x8 (by this round it should be 10sc) Stuff foot and continue to stuff as you go and then change to grey (don’t bind off, just carry behind)
Now, if you like the color change you see in Harry:
sc around for 2 rounds, switch back to black
sc around for 8 rounds. Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.
If you prefer Ron’s leg color change:
sc around, switch back to black
sc around for 9 rounds. Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Now about joining the legs, what you need to do is hold the legs together and sl st through both the legs twice in the middle where they meet, from the front of the legs to the back. Then continue around the legs. You should end with 2 sl st and 16 sc (8 sc around each leg). Moving on to the body you will forgo the sl st and only work in the sc.

Body continuing with black
sc around for 3 rounds
*dec, 3* x3, sc, make sure to continue to stuff as you go and switch to white
sc around for 8 rounds
sc, dec, dec, 2 sec, dec, dec
dec around, Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make two) start with skin color
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
*dec, sc in next 2* around, make sure to stuff lightly as you go and switch to white
sc around for 10 rounds. Bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew onto the sides of the body.

Head
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
*inc, sc* around
*inc, sc in next 2* around
sc around for 6 rounds, insert safety eyes between rounds 5 and 6 (not counting the magic circle as a round), leaving about 3 sc in between.
*dec, sc in next 2* around
*dec, sc* around, be sure to stuff
dec around, bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew on

Ears (optional)
What you’re going to do now is to work the ears right onto the head. Go roughly 5 stitches to the side of the eyes and insert your hook between rounds 8 and 9 and coming up round 8.

Now yo, pull through, yo, pull through the loop, do sc in the same spot, do sc in the next 3 spots moving up the head. Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the 3st, finish off and weave in the tails. Use the ends to help shape the ear a bit. Repeat for the other side of the head.

Tie
So, I played around with quite a few ideas to make this happen… more than I would like to admit for a tie. Now if you would like another way than what I am about to describe, then in one color just ch 21, sc across then use the other color to sew in the stripes. If you want another way, here’s what I did.
Essentially you are going to be doing a foundation sc row. On every third sc, change to the next color. Make sure you crochet over the end and carry the unused yarn by crocheting over it. Make 30 foundation sc then just bind off and weave in the ends. Tie it around the neck flipping both ends down. The vest will hold the tie down

Vest in gray
ch 18 (make sure this goes around the doll’s waist)
sl st to first sc, making sure not to twist, ch 2 (does not count as a st) dc around, sl st to the beginning
ch 2, dc around for 3 rounds, for a total of 4 rounds
ch 11, turn and hdc in the 2nd ch and across (10 hdc) then sc in the first dc. Sc in next 3 dc. ch 11, turn and hdc in the 2nd ch and across (10hdc) then sc in next unused dc. Bind off and leave a long end. Slide vest onto the body then sew the vest straps to the vest. Make sure to position the tie inside the vest how you want it to look.

Cloak in black
ch 21, turn and sc in each ch, ch 1 and turn
*inc, sc* across, ch 1 and turn
*inc, sc in next 2, ch 1 and turn
sc in next 3, ch 6 and skip 12 sc, sc in next 10, ch 6 and skip 12 sc, sc in next 3, ch 1 and turn
sc across in all sc and ch, ch 2 (does not count as stitch) and turn
*dc inc, dc in next 3* dc in last, ch 2 and turn
dc across for 8 rows
ch 1 and sc around the opening and bottom of the cloak, sl st to the first and weave in end
Cloak sleeves, repeat on each arm
Join the yarn in one of the corners of the sleeve opening. Ch 1 and sc around the opening, sl st to beginning, ch 2 (does not count as stitch)
Dc around, sl st to beginning and ch 2. Repeat for a total of 4 rounds. Ch 1 and then sc around, sl st to beginning, bind off and weave in the ends.

The rest is really just fine touches. For Harry, sew a lightening bolt on the forehead and sew the glasses on. For both add some hair onto the top. For Harry I took about 5″ pieces of yarn to hook them onto the head then I split the 4ply yarn into half using a needle to help. I then gave him a hair cuto to style the hair a bit. For Ron I actually just embroidered the hair on just because when I pose them all together I wanted them to look different.  Personally, I am partial to how Harry’s hair turned out.

Mad Hooking!

Coraline Gloves

As my daughter decided to dress up as Coraline this year for Halloween. I was thrilled! Not only have we always loved the movie, but it is an easy costume to pull together. Though she mentioned she wanted some gloves like the ones from the movie. I originally thought it would be no problem. The movie has been out for a while, I won’t have a problem finding the pattern. Yeah, in part I could… for knitting. Now if I even attempted to knit these she might get them in a few years. So, here’s my humble attempt to recreate them in crochet.

Size I hook (now, I do tend to crochet a bit tight as some others have pointed out. These gloves are meant to fit what I would consider a small/medium woman.)
worsted weight yarn in the colors of your choice/ I used orange, medium gray, olive green and a yellow green that was in my stash… great time to stash bust!

Notes:
Note on sizing. This pattern worked for me to make my daughter a pair of gloves. I tried them on her multiple times, much to her annoyance. She does have small woman size hands. They would never have fit my hands. NEVER. I also don’t know how well they would fit a smaller child since I don’t have one to try them on. This was my first foray into making gloves honestly.
Note on color changes. I found it easier to change colors and then let the ends fall to the FRONT of your work. You so don’t want to have to try and turn the glove inside out to sew in the ends later. I didn’t carry the yarn as I usually would because I was afraid of any extra loops for fingers to get caught on. Most likely just my mind.
Note on fingers. When pulling up the yarn to start another finger I found that if I left an extra long beginning ‘end’ then it made it easier to sew the webbing of the fingers together later.
Make two, they are interchangeable on the sides… or make one. Who am I to tell you what to do?

Cuff:
RND 1: Starting with orange, 25 fsc (foundation single crochet or ch 25 and a round of sc), sl st to join. This measured 8″.
RND 2: ch 1(doesn’t count for a stitch), hdc around, sl st to join
RND 3: change to yellow green, ch 1, fphdc (front post half double crochet x2 stitches, bphdc (back post half double crochet) x2 around and ends with a single fphdc and sl st to join
RND 4: ch 1, fphdc in fphdc, bphdc in bphdc, end with single fphdc and sl st to join
RND 5-6: change to olive green and repeat RND 4
RND 7: change to orange and sc around, sl st to join
RND 8: ch 1, inc (increase), 1 sc in next 10 sc, inc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 10 sc, inc in next 2 sc, sl st to join
RND 9-10: change to gray and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 11-12: change to orange and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 13-14: change to olive green, ch 1 and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 15-16: change to yellow green, ch 1 and sc around then sl st to join
RND 17: change to olive green, ch 1 and inc, sc 14, inc, sc to end, sl st to join
RND 18: ch 1, sc in next 14 sc, ch 6 and skip the next 6, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 19: change to orange, ch 1, sc in next 14, sc in the next 6 ch, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 20: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 21: change to yellow green, ch 1, sc next 12, dec (decrease), sc in next 5, dec, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 22: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 23-24: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join

PINKIE:
RND 1 – change to olive green, ch 1, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 3, sl st to first sc of this round
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in next 7 and in each ch, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to yellow green, ch 1 and sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray, ch 1 and sc around, sl st to join
RND 9: ch 1, dec x5, sl st and cut yarn leaving a long end to weave through last stitches to pull close

RING FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the pinkie, the 7th stitch from the beginning, then pull up another stitch immediately in the 8th stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in the 8th, 9th, and 10th st, ch 3, 1 sc in the third st from the baby finger on the other side of glove and the next stitch. Dec from the 3rd stitch and the first st of the backside of the pinkie, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-11: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 12: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

MIDDLE FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the pinkie, the 10th stitch from the beginning, then pull up another stitch immediately in the 11th stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in the 11th, 12th, and 13th st, ch 3, 1 sc in the third st from the ring finger on the other side of glove and the next stitch. Dec from the 3rd stitch and the first st of the backside of the ring finger, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-12: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 14: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

INDEX FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the middle finger, then pull up another stitch immediately in the next stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in next 4, inc, sc in next 3, Dec from the next stitch and the first st of the backside of the middle finger, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-11: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 12: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

THUMB
Join olive green at the first skipped stitch for the thumb.
RND 1 – ch 1 and sc in the next 6 of the skipped stitches. Place hdc dec using the st on each side of the ‘V’ of the thumb, space 6 sc across the back of the ch, hdc dec in the ‘V’ then sl st to join


RNDS 2-4: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 5-7: change to yellow green, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 8-9: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 10: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, dec, sl st to join
RND 11: ch 1, dec around, sl st to join leaving a long end to close

Now do a sc round at the bottom/beginning of the glove to make it look more finished. I do prefer to crochet in the second available hole down, not what would be the back of the chain.


Go put on a good show that you enjoy and get to weaving in the ends and complaining how much they better love these gloves and never want to go without them….
Don’t forget to sew the webbing together. Else that’s exactly where they are going to stick their fingers then look at you wondering what’s wrong and you are going to look at them swearing you thought they were smarter than that.
That’s it then.

Mad Hooking!

Hanging Baby Feet

 

So, I was presented with a picture of a knitted pattern by Sandra Mceachran asking if I had anything similar.  I didn’t, but it was a little challenge and got the hamster in my head kicking a little… just a little mind you.  It was early and she hadn’t had enough caffeine.  After a few cups of coffee, I had a plan of action…

I went back and forth about toe down or sewing on the toes. Going by the picture I went with the toe down and less sewing because let’s face it, I’m all for less sewing on my crochet projects!
G hook (or whatever hook you prefer for your amigurumi projects and so the stuffing doesn’t show)
Yarn of choice (I happened to have pink Bernat worsted weight near me at the time)
Ribbon if wanted for hanging or yarn (I used a satin finish 15mm wide ribbon)
poly-fil
So, make two of these.  It is the same on the front as the back so flipping one makes the other foot…
Also, mine ended up being about 6.5 inches from big toe to heel.
Little Toes, 3 per foot:
6sc in magic circle
*inc, sc in next 2* around
sc for 2 rounds then bind off
Pinky Toe, 1 per foot:
6sc in magic circle
sc around for 2 rounds then bind off
Foot, starting with the big toe:
6sc in magic circle
*inc, sc* around
sc around
*inc, sc in next 2*
sc around
*dec, sc in next 2*
Ok, here’s where it can get tricky.  Just take one stitch at a time and it will be fine.
sc in next 3, then crochet together the second toe (draw up a loop in the current toe, draw up a loop in the new toe, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
sc in next 2, crochet together third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together fourth toe, sc in next 2, crochet together the pinky toe, sc in next 4 (around the pinky toe), crochet together to the fourth toe, sc in next 2,crochet together to the third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the second toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the big toe, sc in next 4 and you should be back to the beginning with a slightly curling weird thing that resembles toes.  It gets to looking better, trust me. Go ahead and stuff all the endings from the toes into the toes to get them out of your way.
Sc around for 2 rows (total of 31 stitches for those keeping count)
Inc in first stitch, sc around until the last 2 stitches.  Inc in the last 2
Sc around for 4 rounds
Sc in next 14 stitches, dec, sc in next 14, dec, dec
Sc around
Sc in next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next 12, dec, dec
*sc in next 5, dec* around
Sc around for 2 rounds then take a break and make sure those toes are stuffed the way you would like.
Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc around
 Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc around for 3 rounds
Sc in next 11 stitches, dec, sc in rest
Sc in next 10 stitches, dec, dec, sc in rest
*dec, sc in next 5* around
*dec, sc in next 4* around, stuff and shape as needed.  Don’t get carried away and stuff too firmly, you want it to be kinda flatish.
*dec, sc in next 3* around
*dec* around, leaving a long tail to sew close
That’s all… you can sew them together and then sew a ribbon on back for hanging or whatever you want to do with the feet!
Tip:  How I sewed my feet together I just made sure that the second foot I left a really long tail and sewed the end closed, placed the other foot next to it and went from there.  I then made the ribbon and used the same tail to sew that to the feet.  Less chance of things coming undone and certainly less threading of the needle.
Mad Hooking!

Pilgrims and Indians

img_9082

So as some of you know I have been working on a Norbert Calendar of sorts… essentially our bearded dragon dressed up in crochet with other crochet items around him. Silly, yes, but it has been so fun honestly. Well I was on to month November and could not find a set of Pilgrims and Indians (those being the hardest) that would work. In typical fashion then here goes my own pattern in case others need or want to make up some. They should be roughly 6 inches tall, but the hats make them a little bigger… Also, no, these are not historically correct, they are simple little patterns for what I had in my head as a typical set from when I was growing up. Also, yes, I know I should say Native Americans and no, I’m not going to enter in that debate…

For the base of the body I turned to a wonderful pattern already done since it met my needs for the most part. You can find the basic pattern here in case you want to use it (http://www.amigurumitogo.com/2015/08/wee-ones-basic-body-pattern.html). Also, check out the other patterns she has listed… very nice work!

Using a G hook with some miscellaneous worsted weight yarn I had around and poly fil for stuffing. I went with 6mm safety eyes as well.

Starting with the Pilgrims

img_20161030_140339

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pilgrim Boy

img_20161030_140258

 

 

 

 

 

 

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to black
15) IN BLO, 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-20) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
change to grey
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
change back to black
23-24) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two in black, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to black
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Pilgrim Collar
So for this it is going to be a bit tricky at first. With the body of the pilgrim facing head down attach your yarn in the FLO at the neck where you worked in the BLO. Your first st will be just to the right of the right eye (when the pilgrim is right side up).
1) ch 4 and 2 tc in the same st
do 2dc in next st
2hdc in each st until the last 2 st
then 2 dc in next st
3tc in the next st, bind off and weave in the end

Pilgrim Hat
In black
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) in BLO sc around
5-6) sc around
7) 1 sc in next 2 then 2sc (24)
8-9) sc around
10) in FLO 1sc in next 3 then 2sc (30)
11) 1sc in next 4 then 2sc (36)
12) 1sc in next 5 then 2sc (42)
13) 1sc in next 6 then 2sc (48)
14) sc around
Bind off, leaving a tail for sewing. Weave the tail back to row 10 and sew on top of your Pilgrim’s head, making sure to stuff lightly before completely sewing close.
Lastly go ahead and sew on a belt buckle and a buckle on the hat… then a nose and mouth if you wish.

 

Pilgrim Girl

img_20161030_140321

 

 

 

 

 

 

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to black
15) IN BLO, 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17) In BLO 1 sc in each
18-24) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two in black, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to black
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Pilgrim Collar
So for this it is going to be a bit tricky at first. With the body of the pilgrim facing head down attach your yarn in the FLO at the neck where you worked in the BLO. Your first st will be just to the right of the left eye (when the pilgrim is right side up), essentially in the middle.
1) ch 4 and 2 tc in the same st
do 1 tc and 1dc in next st
2hdc in each st until the last 2 st
then 2 dc and 1tc in next st
3tc in the next st, bind off and weave in the end.

Pilgrim Dress
So with doll facing you count 4 st to the left from center of the FLO of row 17 and place a marker here. Now attach your black yarn at the back of the doll (doll now head down) in the FLO of the BLO only row from the body.
1) sc around, move your marker up to this row, Sl st to first hdc
2) hdc around until you get to your marker. At the marker hdc in BLO for the next 8 st (you don’t need the marker anymore unless you want to leave it so it is easier to find this spot again for the apron part). Hdc in the rest of the st using both loop around, Sl st to first hdc
3) 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next st around . Sl st to first hdc.
4-7) hdc around, Sl st to first hdc. Bind off and weave in ends.
Apron
1) ch 22 then attach your yarn to the FLO of the 2nd row of the dress and sc in the 8 st. ch1 and turn
2) 1 hdc then 2 hdc in next across, ch1 and turn
3-6) hdc across, ch 1 and turn. After last row bind off and weave in ends. The beginning ch should be sewn around the back of the body to the other side of the apron.

Pilgrim Bonnet
done in white
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1 sc in next 24 st, ch 1 and turn
7-10) hdc in next 24 st, ch 1 and turn
11) ch 10 then starting in 2nd ch, 2sc in each ch going back up to the bonnet. Sc around the bottom of the bonnet to the other side then ch 10 then starting in 2nd ch, 2sc in each ch going back up to the bonnet. Sc around the front to the other tie then bind off, leaving a tail to sew on to the Pilgrim head. Now, to note, I did design the hat a little bit bigger than absolutely necessary. This I did in case I wanted to add hair, but I choose not to. Just know that it might be a little loose or you can add hair if you want.

 

Now for the Indians

img_20161030_140437

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indian Boy

img_20161030_140411

 

 

 

 

 

 

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to medium brown
15) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-20) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
change to dark brown
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
change back to medium brown
23-24) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two starting with the dark brown, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
switch to light brown
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to medium brown
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Hair
So I decided the hair was the next step. I simply cut some black yarn about 10-12 inches long and latch hooked them in the head just at the front hair line. I didn’t have a reason to do the whole head, but if you want have fun. I then tied the hair at the nape of the neck with a piece of red yarn. Gave him a slight trim and that was his hair…

Headdress
With a green I simply did a chainless sc foundation row (or if you want a chain then go back and sc the length of the chain) the length that would fit his head. This will depend slightly on how thick his hair is and your crochet style. For me, it was a total of 22.
Now for the feathers. This is really just like a simple leaf pattern. Make as many as you want to decorate the back of the headdress and in your chosen colors.
1) ch 7, then sc, sc, hdc, dc,hdc, sc
2) now working in the opposite side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Leave a long tail, weave it back to the bottom of the feather (gives it more stability and helps to close up any spaces) and sew it to the beginning of the chainless sc foundation row. This is going to be the back of the headdress with the feathers against the hair when you sew it on the head.
Go ahead and finish sewing the headdress on around his head.

 

Indian Girl

img_20161030_140452

 

 

 

 

 

 

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to medium brown
15) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-22) 1 sc in each for 6
23) In BLO 1 sc in each
24) 1sc in each st
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two starting with dark brown, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
switch to medium brown
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to medium brown
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Indian dress
With the doll head facing down, attach your yarn anywhere really in the FLO only of round 23 with the medium brown.
1) sc around in the FLO, no need to join, just go in a spiral
2-4) hdc around
Now, locate the rough middle of the front and back, then mark them with a stitch marker or another color yarn.
5) hdc until 1 st before the marker, dc in next st, 2 tc in next, dc in next then hdc around until 1 st before the marker, dc in next st, 2 tc in next, dc in next then hdc around to end of row. Switch to red
6) sc around, bind off and weave in end

Hair
So I decided the hair was the next step. I simply cut some black yarn about 12-13 inches long and latch hooked them in the head just at the front hair line, back and down the middle. I didn’t have a reason to do the whole head, but if you want have fun. I then tied the hair at the sides of the neck with a piece of red yarn. Gave her a slight trim and that was her hair…

Headdress
With a green I simply did a chainless sc foundation row (or if you want a chain then go back and sc the length of the chain) the length that would fit her head. This will depend slightly on how thick his hair is and your crochet style. For me, it was a total of 22.
Now for the feathers. This is really just like a simple leaf pattern. Make as many as you want to decorate the back of the headdress and in your chosen colors.
1) ch 7, then sc, sc, hdc, dc,hdc, sc
2) now working in the opposite side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Leave a long tail, weave it back to the bottom of the feather (gives it more stability and helps to close up any spaces) and sew it to the beginning of the chainless sc foundation row. This is going to be the back of the headdress with the feathers against the hair when you sew it on the head.
Go ahead and finish sewing the headdress on around her head.

Mad Hooking!