Harry Potter and Ron Weasley

My next picture with my lovely model Norbert I choose to do how she got her name. Of course I couldn’t find suitable patterns, so here I go making my own. For Harry and Ron the only differences are the fine touches really. Harry gets black hair, glasses and the lightning bolt scar. Ron gets red hair. That’s about it.

Hermione can be found here: https://www.madhooker.com/hermione-granger/

Worsted weight yarn (or any weight of your choosing)
Size G hook (or whatever hook to make a tight crochet with your yarn)
Safety eyes, 9mm
Poly-fil for stuffing

Legs(make two) start with black
8 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
dec x4, sc x8
dec x2, sc x8 (by this round it should be 10sc) Stuff foot and continue to stuff as you go and then change to grey (don’t bind off, just carry behind)
Now, if you like the color change you see in Harry:
sc around for 2 rounds, switch back to black
sc around for 8 rounds. Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.
If you prefer Ron’s leg color change:
sc around, switch back to black
sc around for 9 rounds. Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Now about joining the legs, what you need to do is hold the legs together and sl st through both the legs twice in the middle where they meet, from the front of the legs to the back. Then continue around the legs. You should end with 2 sl st and 16 sc (8 sc around each leg). Moving on to the body you will forgo the sl st and only work in the sc.

Body continuing with black
sc around for 3 rounds
*dec, 3* x3, sc, make sure to continue to stuff as you go and switch to white
sc around for 8 rounds
sc, dec, dec, 2 sec, dec, dec
dec around, Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make two) start with skin color
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds
*dec, sc in next 2* around, make sure to stuff lightly as you go and switch to white
sc around for 10 rounds. Bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew onto the sides of the body.

Head
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
*inc, sc* around
*inc, sc in next 2* around
sc around for 6 rounds, insert safety eyes between rounds 5 and 6 (not counting the magic circle as a round), leaving about 3 sc in between.
*dec, sc in next 2* around
*dec, sc* around, be sure to stuff
dec around, bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew on

Ears (optional)
What you’re going to do now is to work the ears right onto the head. Go roughly 5 stitches to the side of the eyes and insert your hook between rounds 8 and 9 and coming up round 8.

Now yo, pull through, yo, pull through the loop, do sc in the same spot, do sc in the next 3 spots moving up the head. Ch 1, turn, sc in each of the 3st, finish off and weave in the tails. Use the ends to help shape the ear a bit. Repeat for the other side of the head.

Tie
So, I played around with quite a few ideas to make this happen… more than I would like to admit for a tie. Now if you would like another way than what I am about to describe, then in one color just ch 21, sc across then use the other color to sew in the stripes. If you want another way, here’s what I did.
Essentially you are going to be doing a foundation sc row. On every third sc, change to the next color. Make sure you crochet over the end and carry the unused yarn by crocheting over it. Make 30 foundation sc then just bind off and weave in the ends. Tie it around the neck flipping both ends down. The vest will hold the tie down

Vest in gray
ch 18 (make sure this goes around the doll’s waist)
sl st to first sc, making sure not to twist, ch 2 (does not count as a st) dc around, sl st to the beginning
ch 2, dc around for 3 rounds, for a total of 4 rounds
ch 11, turn and hdc in the 2nd ch and across (10 hdc) then sc in the first dc. Sc in next 3 dc. ch 11, turn and hdc in the 2nd ch and across (10hdc) then sc in next unused dc. Bind off and leave a long end. Slide vest onto the body then sew the vest straps to the vest. Make sure to position the tie inside the vest how you want it to look.

Cloak in black
ch 21, turn and sc in each ch, ch 1 and turn
*inc, sc* across, ch 1 and turn
*inc, sc in next 2, ch 1 and turn
sc in next 3, ch 6 and skip 12 sc, sc in next 10, ch 6 and skip 12 sc, sc in next 3, ch 1 and turn
sc across in all sc and ch, ch 2 (does not count as stitch) and turn
*dc inc, dc in next 3* dc in last, ch 2 and turn
dc across for 8 rows
ch 1 and sc around the opening and bottom of the cloak, sl st to the first and weave in end
Cloak sleeves, repeat on each arm
Join the yarn in one of the corners of the sleeve opening. Ch 1 and sc around the opening, sl st to beginning, ch 2 (does not count as stitch)
Dc around, sl st to beginning and ch 2. Repeat for a total of 4 rounds. Ch 1 and then sc around, sl st to beginning, bind off and weave in the ends.

The rest is really just fine touches. For Harry, sew a lightening bolt on the forehead and sew the glasses on. For both add some hair onto the top. For Harry I took about 5″ pieces of yarn to hook them onto the head then I split the 4ply yarn into half using a needle to help. I then gave him a hair cuto to style the hair a bit. For Ron I actually just embroidered the hair on just because when I pose them all together I wanted them to look different. Personally, I am partial to how Harry’s hair turned out.

Mad Hooking!

Storm Trooper

Of course after making Darth Vader, I had to make the Storm Trooper pattern to go with my Norbert (who will of course be dressed as Princess Leia). They are such bad shots anyway so I’m not going to have them holding their weapons…

Worsted weight yarn (or any weight of your choosing) in black and white
Size G hook (or whatever hook to make a tight crochet with your yarn)
Safety eyes, 12mm
Poly-fil for stuffing

Legs(make two) start in black
8 sc in magic circle
inc around
sc around for 2 rounds and switch to white
dec x4, sc x8
dec x2, sc x8 (by this round it should be 10sc) Stuff foot and continue to stuff as you go.
sc around for 8 rounds. Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Body
sc around for 2 rounds and switch to black
sc around for 1 round and switch back to white
*dec, 3* x3, sc, make sure to continue to stuff as you go
sc around for 2 rounds
sc, *dc tog (dc 2tog), sc, sc* x3, dc tog, sc
sc around for 5 rounds and switch to black
sc, dec, dec, 2 sec, dec, dec
dec around, Bind off both, but no need to leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make two) start with black
6 sc in magic circle
inc around and switch to white
sc around for 2 rounds
*dec, sc in next 2* around, make sure to stuff lightly as you go and switch to black
sc around and switch to white
sc around for 7 rounds and switch to black
sc around for 2 rounds. Bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and sew onto the sides of the body.

Head start with white
6 sc in magic circle
inc around
*inc, sc* around switch to black
sc around and switch to white
sc around for 4 round, insert safety eyes between rounds 4 and 5, leaving about 3 sc in between.
*inc, 2 sc* around
sc around
*dec, 2 sc* around and switch to black
*dec, sc* around, be sure to stuff
dec around, bind off, leaving a tail to go ahead and make an upside down ‘v’ for the mouth then sew it onto the body.

Mad Hooking!

Snowman Boot Cuffs

As you may have noticed boot cuffs seem to be everywhere. I personally don’t know the purpose except looks, but that’s just how my mind works. They are quite adorable though… Anywho, I got a request for the Santa boot cuffs (want a great free pattern that’s easy to read and follow, go here: http://www.cuppastitches.com/2017/08/santa-boot-cuffs.html) and I made them up. My problem, I HATE working in the back stitch. I don’t know why as the look is great, but I feel like I’m working forever and going nowhere. So during all the time it took me to make the cuffs I was thinking about a different way to make them… and that’s how I came to make these. Plus, I like snowmen better and it seems to me you could wear them longer in the winter season than Santa ones, but that’s my practical mind again…

Note: Keep in mind, I tend to crochet tightly as I have been told. I have included measurements so you can adjust as needed if you want.

Typical measurements for sizing: Small 13 inches, Medium 15 inches, Large 17 inches. These boot cuffs allow for a decent stretch as well.

I Hook

Red Heart with Love yarn in white, black and red (or contrasting color for scarf)

4 total black buttons (I used 3/4 inch)

black thread to sew on the eyes

Make 2, obviously for a pair, with the ends of the scarf facing different directions as mentioned later

Ch an even amount of stitches, I did 52 for the medium size

ch 2 (beginning ch never count as a st) dc in each st around, sl st to beginning

ch 2 *fpdc (front post double crochet) for 2 st, bpdc (back post double crochet) for 2 st* sl st to beginning fpdc (not the ch 2)

ch 2 fpdc in fpdc and bpdc in bpdc from previous round. Repeat this round 5 more times. This gave me a height of roughly 3 inches.

switch to red or scarf color then ch 1 and fpsc (front post single crochet) in each st around, sl st to beginning

ch 1, hdc in each st, sl st to beginning

ch 1, sc in each st, sl st to beginning change back to white (red part here is 3/4 inch)

ch 1 and fpsc (front post single crochet) in each st around, sl st to beginning

ch 1, hdc in each st, sl st to beginning

ch 1, sc in each st, sl st to beginning change to black (white part is just over an inch)

ch 1 and fpsc (front post single crochet) in each st around, sl st to beginning

ch 1, sc in each st, sl st to beginning and bind off (black part here is half an inch)

turn upside down and sc in white around the “bottom” of the cuff, sl st to beginning and bind off.

Weave in all ends.

Sew on the two button eyes in the top white space about 3-4 stitches apart.

To make the rest of the scarf:

In red or scarf color, ch 31 turn and sc in each st for a total of 30 and turn

ch 1, sc in each st for 2 rows, bind off. Don’t worry about weaving in these ends.

Now cut 6 lengths of about 6 inches in the scarf color. Tie or hook in like you do with crochet hair to the two ends of the scarf. Fold in half and sew onto your cuff, slightly to the side of where you put the eyes. Keep in mind that on one cuff should have the scarf ends to the left and one to the right.

Mad Hooking!

Un-Poppable Balloon

This year my son decided he wanted to be Georgie from Stephen King’s It. Great! Another easy costume to pull together! I had originally thought to make a paper mache balloon for him to carry (a real helium balloon was just asking to get let go and I so didn’t want to deal with that breakdown). Then I got more and more afraid that he would drop it and break it or that I wouldn’t be able to hold the balloon upright without making a hole in it… so I decided just to go ahead and make one! Of course there wasn’t a pattern readily available because how many people think to make a large balloon out of crochet? So, here’s my It balloon pattern…. written as a amigurumi style pattern.

Note: This balloon is big. Like adult head size. You could decrease the amount of increase rounds then decrease the sc and decrease, sc rounds by the exact same and it will work out fine.

Note: As I was making this it made me think that this would be awesome in blue or pink for a baby gift…

G hook or whatever you usually use to keep the polyfil from showing

worsted weight yarn in color of choice, I used red that I had in my stash (which feels like some scratchy Red Heart basic) and white for the lettering

polyfil

dowel of whatever length you want

Duck Tape (I had dark blue and not black so I just used that. Wrapping it around the dowel helps with the stability)

Super Glue (to keep the balloon from sliding)

option red ribbon (I plan on doing this after we use it for Halloween just in the attempt to keep at least one thing off his floor)

6sc in magic circle

*inc* around

*inc, sc* around

*inc, 2 sc* around

*inc, 3 sc* around

*inc, 4 sc* around

*inc, 5 sc* around

*inc, ,6 sc* around

*inc, ,7 sc* around

*inc, ,8 sc* around

*inc, ,9 sc* around

*inc, ,10 sc* around

*inc, ,11 sc* around

*inc, ,12 sc* around

*inc, ,13 sc* around

*inc, ,14 sc* around

*inc, ,15 sc* around

sc around for 15 rounds

*dec, 15 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 14 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 13 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 12 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 11 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 10 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 9 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 8 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 7 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 6 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 5 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 4 sc* around

sc around

Make sure you go ahead and stuff the balloon and insert the dowel. Try to get the dowel in just under a little bit of stuffing at the top of the balloon. Stuff around the dowel… The next few rows you will work around the dowel closing in the balloon and keep stuffing as you go. It’s awkward, but it works.

*dec, 3 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 2 sc* around

sc around

*dec, 1 sc* around

sc around

dec around

sc around

bind off, weave in end

This is where the super glue comes in. Drop a few drops to where you closed in. This keeps the balloon from sliding off the dowel.

There you have it. A big balloon that won’t pop!

Mad Hooking!

Coraline Gloves

As my daughter decided to dress up as Coraline this year for Halloween. I was thrilled! Not only have we always loved the movie, but it is an easy costume to pull together. Though she mentioned she wanted some gloves like the ones from the movie. I originally thought it would be no problem. The movie has been out for a while, I won’t have a problem finding the pattern. Yeah, in part I could… for knitting. Now if I even attempted to knit these she might get them in a few years. So, here’s my humble attempt to recreate them in crochet.

Size I hook (now, I do tend to crochet a bit tight as some others have pointed out. These gloves are meant to fit what I would consider a small/medium woman.)
worsted weight yarn in the colors of your choice/ I used orange, medium gray, olive green and a yellow green that was in my stash… great time to stash bust!

Notes:
Note on sizing. This pattern worked for me to make my daughter a pair of gloves. I tried them on her multiple times, much to her annoyance. She does have small woman size hands. They would never have fit my hands. NEVER. I also don’t know how well they would fit a smaller child since I don’t have one to try them on. This was my first foray into making gloves honestly.
Note on color changes. I found it easier to change colors and then let the ends fall to the FRONT of your work. You so don’t want to have to try and turn the glove inside out to sew in the ends later. I didn’t carry the yarn as I usually would because I was afraid of any extra loops for fingers to get caught on. Most likely just my mind.
Note on fingers. When pulling up the yarn to start another finger I found that if I left an extra long beginning ‘end’ then it made it easier to sew the webbing of the fingers together later.
Make two, they are interchangeable on the sides… or make one. Who am I to tell you what to do?

Cuff:
RND 1: Starting with orange, 25 fsc (foundation single crochet or ch 25 and a round of sc), sl st to join. This measured 8″.
RND 2: ch 1(doesn’t count for a stitch), hdc around, sl st to join
RND 3: change to yellow green, ch 1, fphdc (front post half double crochet x2 stitches, bphdc (back post half double crochet) x2 around and ends with a single fphdc and sl st to join
RND 4: ch 1, fphdc in fphdc, bphdc in bphdc, end with single fphdc and sl st to join
RND 5-6: change to olive green and repeat RND 4
RND 7: change to orange and sc around, sl st to join
RND 8: ch 1, inc (increase), 1 sc in next 10 sc, inc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 10 sc, inc in next 2 sc, sl st to join
RND 9-10: change to gray and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 11-12: change to orange and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 13-14: change to olive green, ch 1 and sc around then sl st to join
RNDS 15-16: change to yellow green, ch 1 and sc around then sl st to join
RND 17: change to olive green, ch 1 and inc, sc 14, inc, sc to end, sl st to join
RND 18: ch 1, sc in next 14 sc, ch 6 and skip the next 6, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 19: change to orange, ch 1, sc in next 14, sc in the next 6 ch, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 20: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 21: change to yellow green, ch 1, sc next 12, dec (decrease), sc in next 5, dec, sc to the end, sl st to join
RND 22: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 23-24: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join

PINKIE:
RND 1 – change to olive green, ch 1, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 3, sl st to first sc of this round
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in next 7 and in each ch, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to yellow green, ch 1 and sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray, ch 1 and sc around, sl st to join
RND 9: ch 1, dec x5, sl st and cut yarn leaving a long end to weave through last stitches to pull close

RING FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the pinkie, the 7th stitch from the beginning, then pull up another stitch immediately in the 8th stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in the 8th, 9th, and 10th st, ch 3, 1 sc in the third st from the baby finger on the other side of glove and the next stitch. Dec from the 3rd stitch and the first st of the backside of the pinkie, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-11: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 12: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

MIDDLE FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the pinkie, the 10th stitch from the beginning, then pull up another stitch immediately in the 11th stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in the 11th, 12th, and 13th st, ch 3, 1 sc in the third st from the ring finger on the other side of glove and the next stitch. Dec from the 3rd stitch and the first st of the backside of the ring finger, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-12: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 14: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

INDEX FINGER
Using olive green pull up a loop in the last worked stitch from the middle finger, then pull up another stitch immediately in the next stitch then pull through both loops on the hook.
RND 1 – Ch 1, sc in next 4, inc, sc in next 3, Dec from the next stitch and the first st of the backside of the middle finger, ch 3, sl st to join(make sure it is to the top of the first stitch and not the first loop)
RND 2 – ch 1, sc in each st and ch around, sl st to join
RNDS 3-5: change to olive green and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 6-8: change to gray and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 9-11: change to orange and ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 12: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, sl st to join
RND 13: ch 1, dec around, sl s to join leaving a long end to close

THUMB
Join olive green at the first skipped stitch for the thumb.
RND 1 – ch 1 and sc in the next 6 of the skipped stitches. Place hdc dec using the st on each side of the ‘V’ of the thumb, space 6 sc across the back of the ch, hdc dec in the ‘V’ then sl st to join

RNDS 2-4: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 5-7: change to yellow green, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RNDS 8-9: change to orange, ch 1, sc around, sl st to join
RND 10: ch 1, *dec, sc* x4, dec, sl st to join
RND 11: ch 1, dec around, sl st to join leaving a long end to close

Now do a sc round at the bottom/beginning of the glove to make it look more finished. I do prefer to crochet in the second available hole down, not what would be the back of the chain.

Go put on a good show that you enjoy and get to weaving in the ends and complaining how much they better love these gloves and never want to go without them….
Don’t forget to sew the webbing together. Else that’s exactly where they are going to stick their fingers then look at you wondering what’s wrong and you are going to look at them swearing you thought they were smarter than that.
That’s it then.

Mad Hooking!

Hanging Baby Feet

So, I was presented with a picture of a knitted pattern by Sandra Mceachran asking if I had anything similar. I didn’t, but it was a little challenge and got the hamster in my head kicking a little… just a little mind you. It was early and she hadn’t had enough caffeine. After a few cups of coffee, I had a plan of action…

I went back and forth about toe down or sewing on the toes. Going by the picture I went with the toe down and less sewing because let’s face it, I’m all for less sewing on my crochet projects!

G hook (or whatever hook you prefer for your amigurumi projects and so the stuffing doesn’t show)

Yarn of choice (I happened to have pink Bernat worsted weight near me at the time)

Ribbon if wanted for hanging or yarn (I used a satin finish 15mm wide ribbon)

poly-fil

So, make two of these. It is the same on the front as the back so flipping one makes the other foot…

Also, mine ended up being about 6.5 inches from big toe to heel.

Little Toes, 3 per foot:

6sc in magic circle

*inc, sc in next 2* around

sc for 2 rounds then bind off

Pinky Toe, 1 per foot:

6sc in magic circle

sc around for 2 rounds then bind off

Foot, starting with the big toe:

6sc in magic circle

*inc, sc* around

sc around

*inc, sc in next 2*

sc around

*dec, sc in next 2*

Ok, here’s where it can get tricky. Just take one stitch at a time and it will be fine.

sc in next 3, then crochet together the second toe (draw up a loop in the current toe, draw up a loop in the new toe, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)

sc in next 2, crochet together third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together fourth toe, sc in next 2, crochet together the pinky toe, sc in next 4 (around the pinky toe), crochet together to the fourth toe, sc in next 2,crochet together to the third toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the second toe, sc in next 2, crochet together to the big toe, sc in next 4 and you should be back to the beginning with a slightly curling weird thing that resembles toes. It gets to looking better, trust me. Go ahead and stuff all the endings from the toes into the toes to get them out of your way.

Sc around for 2 rows (total of 31 stitches for those keeping count)

Inc in first stitch, sc around until the last 2 stitches. Inc in the last 2

Sc around for 4 rounds

Sc in next 14 stitches, dec, sc in next 14, dec, dec

Sc around

Sc in next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next 12, dec, dec

*sc in next 5, dec* around

Sc around for 2 rounds then take a break and make sure those toes are stuffed the way you would like.

Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest

Sc around

Inc, sc in the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in rest

Sc around for 3 rounds

Sc in next 11 stitches, dec, sc in rest

Sc in next 10 stitches, dec, dec, sc in rest

*dec, sc in next 5* around

*dec, sc in next 4* around, stuff and shape as needed. Don’t get carried away and stuff too firmly, you want it to be kinda flatish.

*dec, sc in next 3* around

*dec* around, leaving a long tail to sew close

That’s all… you can sew them together and then sew a ribbon on back for hanging or whatever you want to do with the feet!

Tip: How I sewed my feet together I just made sure that the second foot I left a really long tail and sewed the end closed, placed the other foot next to it and went from there. I then made the ribbon and used the same tail to sew that to the feet. Less chance of things coming undone and certainly less threading of the needle.

Mad Hooking!

Pilgrims and Indians

So as some of you know I have been working on a Norbert Calendar of sorts… essentially our bearded dragon dressed up in crochet with other crochet items around him. Silly, yes, but it has been so fun honestly. Well I was on to month November and could not find a set of Pilgrims and Indians (those being the hardest) that would work. In typical fashion then here goes my own pattern in case others need or want to make up some. They should be roughly 6 inches tall, but the hats make them a little bigger… Also, no, these are not historically correct, they are simple little patterns for what I had in my head as a typical set from when I was growing up. Also, yes, I know I should say Native Americans and no, I’m not going to enter in that debate…

For the base of the body I turned to a wonderful pattern already done since it met my needs for the most part. You can find the basic pattern here in case you want to use it (http://www.amigurumitogo.com/2015/08/wee-ones-basic-body-pattern.html). Also, check out the other patterns she has listed… very nice work!

Using a G hook with some miscellaneous worsted weight yarn I had around and poly fil for stuffing. I went with 6mm safety eyes as well.

Starting with the Pilgrims

Pilgrim Boy

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to black
15) IN BLO, 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-20) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
change to grey
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
change back to black
23-24) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two in black, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to black
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Pilgrim Collar
So for this it is going to be a bit tricky at first. With the body of the pilgrim facing head down attach your yarn in the FLO at the neck where you worked in the BLO. Your first st will be just to the right of the right eye (when the pilgrim is right side up).
1) ch 4 and 2 tc in the same st
do 2dc in next st
2hdc in each st until the last 2 st
then 2 dc in next st
3tc in the next st, bind off and weave in the end

Pilgrim Hat
In black
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) in BLO sc around
5-6) sc around
7) 1 sc in next 2 then 2sc (24)
8-9) sc around
10) in FLO 1sc in next 3 then 2sc (30)
11) 1sc in next 4 then 2sc (36)
12) 1sc in next 5 then 2sc (42)
13) 1sc in next 6 then 2sc (48)
14) sc around
Bind off, leaving a tail for sewing. Weave the tail back to row 10 and sew on top of your Pilgrim’s head, making sure to stuff lightly before completely sewing close.
Lastly go ahead and sew on a belt buckle and a buckle on the hat… then a nose and mouth if you wish.

Pilgrim Girl

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to black
15) IN BLO, 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17) In BLO 1 sc in each
18-24) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Pilgrim Collar
So for this it is going to be a bit tricky at first. With the body of the pilgrim facing head down attach your yarn in the FLO at the neck where you worked in the BLO. Your first st will be just to the right of the left eye (when the pilgrim is right side up), essentially in the middle.
1) ch 4 and 2 tc in the same st
do 1 tc and 1dc in next st
2hdc in each st until the last 2 st
then 2 dc and 1tc in next st
3tc in the next st, bind off and weave in the end.

Pilgrim Dress
So with doll facing you count 4 st to the left from center of the FLO of row 17 and place a marker here. Now attach your black yarn at the back of the doll (doll now head down) in the FLO of the BLO only row from the body.
1) sc around, move your marker up to this row, Sl st to first hdc
2) hdc around until you get to your marker. At the marker hdc in BLO for the next 8 st (you don’t need the marker anymore unless you want to leave it so it is easier to find this spot again for the apron part). Hdc in the rest of the st using both loop around, Sl st to first hdc
3) 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next st around . Sl st to first hdc.
4-7) hdc around, Sl st to first hdc. Bind off and weave in ends.
Apron
1) ch 22 then attach your yarn to the FLO of the 2nd row of the dress and sc in the 8 st. ch1 and turn
2) 1 hdc then 2 hdc in next across, ch1 and turn
3-6) hdc across, ch 1 and turn. After last row bind off and weave in ends. The beginning ch should be sewn around the back of the body to the other side of the apron.

Pilgrim Bonnet
done in white
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1 sc in next 24 st, ch 1 and turn
7-10) hdc in next 24 st, ch 1 and turn
11) ch 10 then starting in 2nd ch, 2sc in each ch going back up to the bonnet. Sc around the bottom of the bonnet to the other side then ch 10 then starting in 2nd ch, 2sc in each ch going back up to the bonnet. Sc around the front to the other tie then bind off, leaving a tail to sew on to the Pilgrim head. Now, to note, I did design the hat a little bit bigger than absolutely necessary. This I did in case I wanted to add hair, but I choose not to. Just know that it might be a little loose or you can add hair if you want.

Now for the Indians

Indian Boy

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to medium brown
15) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-20) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
change to dark brown
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
change back to medium brown
23-24) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two starting with the dark brown, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
switch to light brown
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to medium brown
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Hair
So I decided the hair was the next step. I simply cut some black yarn about 10-12 inches long and latch hooked them in the head just at the front hair line. I didn’t have a reason to do the whole head, but if you want have fun. I then tied the hair at the nape of the neck with a piece of red yarn. Gave him a slight trim and that was his hair…

Headdress
With a green I simply did a chainless sc foundation row (or if you want a chain then go back and sc the length of the chain) the length that would fit his head. This will depend slightly on how thick his hair is and your crochet style. For me, it was a total of 22.
Now for the feathers. This is really just like a simple leaf pattern. Make as many as you want to decorate the back of the headdress and in your chosen colors.
1) ch 7, then sc, sc, hdc, dc,hdc, sc
2) now working in the opposite side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Leave a long tail, weave it back to the bottom of the feather (gives it more stability and helps to close up any spaces) and sew it to the beginning of the chainless sc foundation row. This is going to be the back of the headdress with the feathers against the hair when you sew it on the head.
Go ahead and finish sewing the headdress on around his head.

Indian Girl

start with skin color
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-11) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
go ahead and insert safety eyes roughly between rows 7 and 8 about 3 stitches apart
12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc then 2tog (12)
switch to medium brown
15) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-22) 1 sc in each for 6
23) In BLO 1 sc in each
24) 1sc in each st
*stuff head, shape while stuffing
25) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
26) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stuff body, make sure to stuff more into the head and neck area as needed.
27) 2tog around (6) bind off and sew opening closed.

Legs, make two starting with dark brown, stuff as you go and sew to bottom of body
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 8st (10)
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 6st (8)
switch to medium brown
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms, make two starting with skin color and lightly stuff in skin color part only. You will be sewing it to the sides of the body roughly between rows 16/17.
1) magic circle or an adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st(12)
3) sc in each st
4) 2tog 6 times
switch to medium brown
5-10) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sc through both thickness for 3 sc, f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Indian dress
With the doll head facing down, attach your yarn anywhere really in the FLO only of round 23 with the medium brown.
1) sc around in the FLO, no need to join, just go in a spiral
2-4) hdc around
Now, locate the rough middle of the front and back, then mark them with a stitch marker or another color yarn.
5) hdc until 1 st before the marker, dc in next st, 2 tc in next, dc in next then hdc around until 1 st before the marker, dc in next st, 2 tc in next, dc in next then hdc around to end of row. Switch to red
6) sc around, bind off and weave in end

Hair
So I decided the hair was the next step. I simply cut some black yarn about 12-13 inches long and latch hooked them in the head just at the front hair line, back and down the middle. I didn’t have a reason to do the whole head, but if you want have fun. I then tied the hair at the sides of the neck with a piece of red yarn. Gave her a slight trim and that was her hair…

Headdress
With a green I simply did a chainless sc foundation row (or if you want a chain then go back and sc the length of the chain) the length that would fit her head. This will depend slightly on how thick his hair is and your crochet style. For me, it was a total of 22.
Now for the feathers. This is really just like a simple leaf pattern. Make as many as you want to decorate the back of the headdress and in your chosen colors.
1) ch 7, then sc, sc, hdc, dc,hdc, sc
2) now working in the opposite side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Leave a long tail, weave it back to the bottom of the feather (gives it more stability and helps to close up any spaces) and sew it to the beginning of the chainless sc foundation row. This is going to be the back of the headdress with the feathers against the hair when you sew it on the head.
Go ahead and finish sewing the headdress on around her head.

Mad Hooking!

Monster Wreath

I have wanted to make this wreath for so long (as I have the movie completely memorized) and I am so happy to finally be able to bring it to life using crochet as my art medium. For this pattern I will not use abbreviations so as not to confuse anyone. The pattern is written in US terminology. I hope you enjoy it as well! Due to the number of pictures they will all be thumbnails that you can click to see the full-size image.

Feel free to sell/give away/do whatever with your finished project. Please just make sure you give me credit for the pattern. DO NOT sell or reproduce my pattern without my permission.

Materials:
Fake wreath approximately 18″ inner diameter
Size H hook
Worsted weight yarn in colors red, white, yellow
Polyfil
Darning needle

Bow:
Row 1: Chain 22 and double crochet in 3rd chain from hook and across for a total of 20 double crochet.
Row 2: Now chain 2 (which will not count as a stitch) and double crochet in each stitch across for a total of 20 double crochet.
Repeat row 2 until your strip measures 48 inches long. Single crochet evenly around the strip making sure to put 3 single crochet in the corners. Bind off and weave in the end.

Tying the bow:
Fold the strip in half. Lay it down on the floor with the ends right side up.

About 10 inches from the ends, gather the strip together. Now take your red yarn and wrap tightly around the gathered strip roughly 10 times.

Now bring down the middle of the strip, place it on top of the already gathered spot.

Finally wrap the yarn in the middle about 10 more times. Now tie off, weave in ends and arrange the bow.

Middle bow strip:
Row 1: chain 7, double crochet in 3rd chain from the hook and across giving you 5 double crochet.
Row 2: Chain 2 (which does not count as a stitch) double crochet in each stitch across for a total of 5 double crochet.
Repeat row 2 until your strip fits around the middle of the bow. Mine was 8 inches and 15 rows, but this will vary depending upon how you tied your bow.
Single crochet around the bow strip, placing 3 single crochet in each corner. Bind off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Wrap the bow strip around the middle, having the ends meet at the back. Now sew the two ends together. Then make another few stitches attaching the bow strip to the bow securely. Do not cut the yarn. You will need this to secure the bow to the wreath.

Eyes (make 2)
The eyes will be worked in the round, amigurumi style. This will help give it shape and substance in your wreath. They can be done with either yellow or white depending on preference. You will need a stitch marker for each round. Also, I continued to use my H hook since I tend to crochet a bit tightly and this doesn’t have to be quite as tight as when I make amigurumi. If you are a looser crocheter, please feel free to drop down to a G hook.
Round 1: start with a magic circle (or a chain 2, working in the 2nd chain from the hook) and place 6 single crochet inside the circle.
Round 2: *single crochet increase (2 single crochet in same stitch) in first stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches* repeat x1. (8 single crochet)
Round 3: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 3 stitches* repeat x1. (10 single crochet)
Round 4: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 4 stitches* repeat x1. (12 single crochet)
Round 5: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 5 stitches* repeat x1. (14 single crochet)
Round 6: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 6 stitches* repeat x1. (16 single crochet)
Round 7: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 7 stitches* repeat x1. (18 single crochet)
Round 8: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 8 stitches* repeat x1. (20 single crochet)
Round 9: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 9 stitches* repeat x1. (22 single crochet)
Round 10: *single crochet increase, single crochet in next 10 stitches* repeat x1. (24 single crochet)
Rounds 11-14: single crochet evenly around.
Round 15: *single crochet decrease (insert hook and pull up a loop through first stitch, insert hook and pull up a loop through second stitch, yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook), single crochet in next 10 stitches* repeat x1. (22 single crochet)
Round 16: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 9 stitches* repeat x1. (20 single crochet)
Round 17: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 8 stitches* repeat x1. (18 single crochet)
Round 18: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 7 stitches* repeat x1. (16 single crochet)
Round 19: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 6 stitches* repeat x1. (14 single crochet)
Round 20: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 5 stitches* repeat x1. (12 single crochet) Stuff eye ever so slightly, just enough to hold flattened oval shape.
Round 21: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 4 stitches* repeat x1. (10 single crochet)
Round 22: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 3 stitches* repeat x1. (8 single crochet)
Round 23: *single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 2 stitches* repeat x1. (6 single crochet)
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew opening closed and do not cut yarn.

Iris: (make two)
With black and H hook. Note that if you want you could embroider the iris on making them smaller if you prefer.
Round 1: start with a magic circle (or a chain 2, working in the 2nd chain from the hook) and place 6 single crochet inside the circle
Round 2: *single crochet in the next 2 stitches. In the next stitch do 3 double crochet* repeat x1 slip stitch to first single crochet in round. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sew iris onto the eyes. Exact placement isn’t critical as he could be looking around. Play around with how you want your monster to look.

Teeth (make as many as you want and have fun with it! This is the basic tooth pattern, but you can make some longer by adding single crochet rounds or add some increase rounds or increase more early on in the tooth. The tooth pattern is worked top down, slightly stuffed to keep shape.)
With white and H hook (or G hook if you crochet loosely)
Round 1: start with a magic circle (or a chain 2, working in the 2nd chain from the hook) and place 6 single crochet inside the circle
Round 2: single crochet in each stitch (6 single crochet)
Round 3: *single crochet increase (2 single crochet in same stitch) in first stitch, single crochet in next 2 stitches* repeat x1. (8 single crochet)
Round 4: single crochet in each stitch
Round 5: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 3 stitches* repeat x1. (10 single crochet)
Round 6: single crochet in each stitch
Round 7: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 4 stitches* repeat x1. (12 single crochet)
Round 8: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 5 stitches* repeat x1. (14 single crochet)
Round 9-11: single crochet in each stitch
Round 12: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 6 stitches* repeat x1. (16 single crochet)
Round 13: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 7 stitches* repeat x1. (18 single crochet)
Round 14-16: single crochet in each stitch
Round 17: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 8 stitches* repeat x1. (20 single crochet)
Round 18: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 9 stitches* repeat x1. (22 single crochet)
Round 19: *single crochet increase in first stitch, single crochet in next 10 stitches* repeat x1. (24 single crochet)
Round 20-24: single crochet in each stitch. Bind off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff lightly to hold shape and sew opening closed. Do not cut your yarn.

Now, all that is left is to sew the pieces onto your wreath using the tails from your parts. Mine had these nice wire basics to sew onto to. This doesn’t mean it was easy.

And that’s it! Mad hooking!

Shark Lapghan Pattern

I cannot tell you how many requests I got for one of these. Of course I wasn’t going to revisit my problem from before of buying a pattern, especially when it is so close to my mermaid lapghan… So disclaimer, this was my first run on it and the pattern hasn’t been retested. I hope you like it.

This pattern is for an adult sized shark lapghan. That being said, check the measurements (approximately 41 inches wide by 41 inches long). It is also perfect for a young adult to be able to grow into.

As with all patterns, look ahead and see if this is what you want to do. My take on this one is a little different than some others.

A note on the Polyfil. I used it and the lapghan is still washable. However it can make the tail fin a bit heavier. How it is constructed it will hold its shape decently without it, but I wanted to show it stuffed… And it had been my original thought.

G and H size hooks
Grey yarn (I used Red Heart I Love this Yarn. It took roughly 4 skeins of grey.)
White yarn (small amount, just for the teeth)
Black yarn (really small amount, just for the eyes)
Polyfil (if desired)
Stitch markers if you like

To start, ch 152 (this gave me a width of 41″)

Row 1: dc in third chain and across, ch 2 (150 dc with ch 2 NOT counting as a stitch)

Row 2-64: dc in each st across (do not skip 1st st), ch 2 and turn (150 dc with a total length of 28″)

Row 65: dc in each st across but do not turn. Sl st in the first dc of the row, bringing both sides together, ch 2, do not turn.

We will now continue on in rounds. Note: this pattern has only been done once as of right now. Don’t stress about exactness of the decreases. If you need to add a dc or two at the end of the round, meh. It will work out fine. The lapghan will not implode. It will work out just fine.

Round 66-70: dc in same as join and in each dc around, sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 71: dc same as join, dc in next 7. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 8, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 72: dc same as join, dc in next 6. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 7, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 73: dc same as join and around.

Round 74: dc same as join, dc in next 5. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 6, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 75: dc same as join, dc in next 4. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 5, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 76: dc same as join and around.

Round 77: dc same as join, dc in next 3. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 4, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 78: dc same as join, dc in next 2. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 3, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 79-80: dc same as join and around.

Round 81: dc same as join, dc in next st. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 2, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 82-83: dc same as join and around.

Round 84: dc same as join, dc in next 2. Dc2tog (dc decrease), *dc in next 3, dc2tog* sl st to first dc, ch 2.

Round 85-86: dc same as join and around.

NOTE: At the end of round 86 you should have 36 stitches. What if you don’t? Either add (increase) how many you need or subtract (decrease) so you are at this number. You should be close if not dead on, so it will be fine. Truly, it will be. Don’t worry.

Switch to a size G hook. Use a stitch marker for the beginning of the rounds if needed.
Round 87: in BACK LOOPS ONLY, sc in same as join, sc in next 4. Sc2tog (sc decrease), *Sc in next 5, sc2tog* around. Do NOT sl st, we are going to spiral the rest of the way close.

Round 88: working in both loops and starting in the first sc from the previous round, *sc in next 4, sc2tog*around.

Round 89: *sc in next 3, sc2tog*around.

Round 90: *sc in next 2, sc2tog*around.

Round 91: *sc in next 1, sc2tog*around.

Round 92: sc2tog around. Bind off, leave a long tail to sew close.

Join grey at the ‘v’ in the back of the lapghan, where you switched from rows to rounds and with your H hook, sc around the entire opening placing 3 sc in the top corners. Bind off and weave in your ends.

Teeth
White yarn
H hook

Attach yarn to top corner.

Row 1: *Sc, hdc, hdc, dc and tc in next, tc and dc in next, hdc, hdc, sc, sl st, sl st* across. Bind off, weave in ends.

Row 2: attach yarn to first sc and sc in each st until the tc. In first tc, sc, ch 1. sc until the sl st then sl st in those. Continue down the line and then bind off, weaving in the ends.

Now on to the fins. This is where I have made up about twenty different styles and decided on these. I wanted to be able to add some polyfil to keep the shape, but keep them washable. That made me decide on making them like amigurumi so bear with me on this one.

Tail fin
G hook
Grey yarn
Polyfil (if desired)
Stitch markers

Now I made these so that once you saw the stitch pattern repetition you could adjust as needed if you want. Adding rounds or doing less rounds… That sort of thing.

Attach your yarn to the front loops of round 87.

Round 1-5: sc around do NOT join at the end of every round. We will be working in a spiral. Use stitch markers if needed. Also, you should have 36 sc in each round. If not, just decrease or increase as needed.

Round 6: *2 sc in next, sc in next 6* around

Round 7: sc around

Round 8: *2 sc in next, sc in next 7* around

Round 9: sc around

Round 10: *2 sc in next, sc in next 8* around

Round 11: sc around

Round 12: *2 sc in next, sc in next 9* around

Round 13-15: sc around

Round 16: *2 sc in next, sc in next 10* around

Round 17-19: sc around

Round 18: *2 sc in next, sc in next 11* around

Round 19-21: sc around

Round 22: *2 sc in next, sc in next 12* around

Round 23-25: sc around

Round 26: *2 sc in next, sc in next 13* around

Round 27-29: sc around

Round 30: *2 sc in next, sc in next 14* around

Round 31-33: sc around

Round 34: *2 sc in next, sc in next 15* around

Round 35-37: sc around, bind off.

Now, fold your lapghan in half (bringing the edges of the V together) on the floor. Smooth out the tail fin so it is flat as well and mark the roughly half way spot. This is where you are going to attach your yarn through both thickness.

Round 38: sc in same as join and sc around until you get back to the stitch before the join. Now sc2tog the last stitch and the first stitch you made. Mark this stitch.

Round A 39-close: sc around until last stitch before join then sc3tog. Note the 3. It is the stitch before the tog stitch, tog stitch and the 1st sc of the next round. Also, when I say close it is to keep going in spirals until you only have 6 st left. Then you cut your yarn and sew the rest close. Stuff the fin if desired.

Round B 39-close: do the exact same as Round A. Continue to stuff if needed.

Dorsal (top) fin

G hook
Grey yarn
Polysilicon (if desired)
Stitch markers

Round 1: 6 sc in a magic circle

Round 2: sc around

Round 3: 2 sc in each st around

Round 5-6: sc around

Round 7: *2 sc in next st, sc next* around

Round 8-9: sc around

Round 10: *2 sc in next st, sc next 2* around

Round 11-13: sc around

Round 14: *2 sc in next st, sc next 3* around

Round 15-17: sc around

Round 18: *2 sc in next st, sc next 4* around

Round 19-21: sc around

Round 22: *2 sc in next st, sc next 5* around

Round 23-25: sc around

Round 26: *2 sc in next st, sc next 6* around

Round 27-30a: sc around

Round 31: hdc in next st, dc in next 2, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 3* around. Sl st to first hdc, bind off leaving a LONG tail for sewing. (Now don’t worry if this row doesn’t come out perfect. It is only to make it easier to attach the fin to the lapghan. Technically you don’t have to have it, but it makes life easier.)

Round 32: attach your yarn to the unworked (back loops) of round 31. *Sc in the next 6, sc2tog* around (note: I didn’t keep exact count because I forgot to honestly. Working nights does that to you. Don’t stress if the rounds don’t work up perfectly. It’s just to help keep the stuffing in.)

Round 33: *Sc in the next 5, sc2tog* around

Round 34: *Sc in the next 4, sc2tog* around

Round 35: *Sc in the next 3, sc2tog* around

Round 36: *Sc in the next 2, sc2tog* around

Round 37: *Sc in the next 2, sc2tog* around. Go ahead and stuff the fin if desired.

Round 38: *Sc in the next 1, sc2tog* around

Round 39: *Sc in the next 1, sc2tog* around

Round 40: *sc2tog* around. Bind off and sew close. Now I then placed about 5 stitches in the middle of the fin to make it angle back more. Not strictly necessary, but it made sense to me.

Sew the top fin in the middle top of blanket. Pin in place before sewing to make your life a little easier.

Eyes
Black yarn
H hook

Round 1: 12 dc in a magic circle, sl st to first dc, ch 2

Round 2: 2 dc in first dc and in every dc around, sl st to first, bind off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew eyes on either side of the top fin, about halfway from the top to the fin.

And that’s it!
Mad hooking!

Sweet Shells Baby Bonnet and Blanket Edging

I have to admit, I love the edging I wrote for the Granny Square and Ribbon Blanket. I use it so very often anymore as a go to for a statement, lacy edging on fleece blankets and it never fails to make the recipients of the blanket happy. I recently used it on a baby blanket for my brother/sister-in-law coming soon little girl and I wanted a matching hat and shoes. I couldn’t find what I wanted, so what follows is the pattern for the edging and the bonnet. The shoes, if you want that pattern as well, can be found here (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/baby-bootie-slippers) for free even if I did my bow a little different…

As with all my patterns feel free to use and sell what you make if you want. I would ask that you link back to where you found the pattern when possible. However do not reproduce my pattern in any format. Essentially, don’t be a troll.

Edging:

Size H hook.

The yarn I used in the picture was Red Heart with Love in Bubblegum. To make the holes I use this nifty little tool I got from Kay’s Crochet (http://kayscrochetpatterns.com/) but I ordered mine off of their Amazon store because me and Amazon have a tight relationship like that…

Round 1: sc into the holes you made into your fleece. Depending on how spaced apart your holes are you might do 2 sc in each hole like I do, just so you aren’t bunching up the fleece.

Round 2: sc around, placing 3 sc in the corner sc. Don’t worry, this isn’t an exact science. Truly don’t worry, just roughly where the corner is, throw in the 3 sc in one sc.

Round 3: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same st as joining. Skip 1 st, *dc in next, skip 2 st then (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next st, skip 2 st* around. Corners: When you get to the corners though you will only be skipping 1 st instead of the 2. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st in the first two dc and into the space. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same space. *fpdc (front post double crochet) around the dc in middle of groups, (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space* around. Corners: Nothing special to do in the corners for a change. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3.

Round 5: Sl st in the first two dc and into the space like last round. Ch 3 and do 6 dc in same space. *fpdc around previous round fpdc, 7 dc in ch 1 space* around. Corners: Again, nothing special to do in the corners. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Bind off and weave in your ends and that’s it for the edging.

Bonnet:

Size H hook.

I used Red Heart with Love in White (I had this in my stash without the label so I’m not exactly sure of the name) and Bubblegum for this and according to my chart it should be for a 3 month old babe. So, depending on your yarn it could change the size of your hat. I have found this blog/sizing chart to be helpful (http://anniespictureperfect.blogspot.com/2013/01/how-to-properly-size-crochet-hats-chart.html?m=1)

With white, create a magic circle then ch 2

Round 1: 10 dc in the magic circle ,sl st to first then ch 2

Round 2: 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 3: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next* around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 4: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next 2* around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 5: *2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next 3* around, sl st to first then ch 2

Round 6: dc in each of the next 45 st leaving the last 5 unworked, ch 3 and turn

Round 7: *dc in next, skip 2 st then (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next st, skip 2 st* across until the last 2 dc. Dc in the last 2, ch 3 and turn

Round 8: fpdc (front post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, fpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn.

Round 9: bpdc (back post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, bpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn.

Round 10: fpdc (front post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, fpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 and turn.

Round 11: bpdc (back post double crochet) around the second dc, *(3dc, ch 1, 3dc) in next ch 1 space, bpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3 changing to pink, ch 3 and turn.

Round 12: fpdc (front post double crochet) around the second dc, *7 dc in next ch 1 space, fpdc around next dc* then dc in top of ch 3 do NOT cut yarn.

Round 13: ch 20, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back to the bonnet. Sc evenly along the side and back until you get to the beginning of round 12. Ch 20, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch back up to the bonnet. Cut and weave in your yarn.

Mad Hooking!

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Not your Grandmother's crochet!

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Sweet Shells Baby Bonnet and Blanket Edging

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